Closer to too late than too early, as I understand it. You're lucky it's going to be warm this weekend, assuming you live in Iowa.
Fertilizing my lawn for initial spring application
- Thread starter spierceisu
- Start date
I have always thought about mowing low for my final mow, but I was told by someone that I should mow it the same height, as it may protect it from a harsh winter. I also read that long grass can mat and create mold. I mow mine a bit shorter in once the heat of summer has passed (2 3/4"). I think I may have done my final mow already as the grass has really not grown recently.
What's the rationale for cutting it shorter than usual, before winter? It goes dormant in the winter but needs to store food reserves prior, which it needs the blades to do until the task is complete. Cutting hence could be harmful.
If the theory is that the blades could harbor disease through the winter, well there's spores everywhere including prior cuttings, good luck. But if that's the reason, then you'd want to bag and remove the cuttings, the spores will survive the winter just fine on the blades whether attached and standing, or lying on the ground with the mulch from prior cuttings.
Or, if you're cutting it short so leaves will blow off your yard and over to the neighbors, your choice to mulch/bag, not gonna matter the wind doesn't care. Unless your grass is really, really long.
What's the point of fertilizing after the grass has gone dormant, ie asleep? Can't drink a beer while sleeping, or at least most can't.
Putting fertilixer down BEFORE the grass goes dormant can be helpful, allows the soil microbes to break it down and the grass to absorb the nutrients, and thus have a store in hand for spring.
I was told that even if the grass is not growing above the surface, there is still activity below the surface for a bit. Normally in central iowa I was told late October/Early November is the best time for a Winterizer fertilizer application.
Fertilizer urea
Guide to using urea as a crop fertilizer in Minnesota: How to apply urea and how much to use. Covers urea basics, losses, application methods and storage.
Nitrogen in the Environment: Leaching | MU Extension
Nitrate leaching can have a direct impact on water quality. Visit our site to view our Nitrogen in the Environment: Leaching resource. | Reviewed by David BruneDepartment of Agricultural EngineeringScott C. Killpack and Daryl BuchholzDepartment of AgronomyWhen soil becomes excessively wet...
These are also informative: the Missouri source has numerous links which are drop down menus, generally need to drop down a few levels to reach actual content.
In earlier replies I diffentiated between applying "lawn" fertilizer to established lawn vs new, and "plain" urea vs coated. The links explain why in depth, on an established lawn the urea is obviously not being incorporated into the soil, so if not coated and not fixed by rain or watering, it's prone to evaporation.
Evaporation doesn't happen as much when the temp is lower, thus the one positive of late year application. But, nitrates are also prone to leaching through the soil, thus not providing full benefit to the grass/plants AND causing groundwater pollution.
There's lots of disagreement about the pros/cons, the overriding caveat is "with proper application". If the thought is to throw some money down without getting full benefits, and perhaps getting some nitrogen to the turf while a good share may evaporate or leach away into the groundwater, well, the primary goal of turf specialists is to grow grass, cost effectiveness and environmental concerns are kinda down the list. Farmers USED to do that, not anymore, cost:benefit is essential. Not as important to the average homeowner, but if going to the time and expense, why not try to maximize benefits.
This is good stuff. Are you an agronomist or something? I was an agronomy major for about a semester until I realized it wasn't for me.Fertilizer urea
Guide to using urea as a crop fertilizer in Minnesota: How to apply urea and how much to use. Covers urea basics, losses, application methods and storage.extension.umn.edu
Nitrogen in the Environment: Leaching | MU Extension
Nitrate leaching can have a direct impact on water quality. Visit our site to view our Nitrogen in the Environment: Leaching resource. | Reviewed by David BruneDepartment of Agricultural EngineeringScott C. Killpack and Daryl BuchholzDepartment of AgronomyWhen soil becomes excessively wet...extension.missouri.edu
These are also informative: the Missouri source has numerous links which are drop down menus, generally need to drop down a few levels to reach actual content.
In earlier replies I diffentiated between applying "lawn" fertilizer to established lawn vs new, and "plain" urea vs coated. The links explain why in depth, on an established lawn the urea is obviously not being incorporated into the soil, so if not coated and not fixed by rain or watering, it's prone to evaporation.
Evaporation doesn't happen as much when the temp is lower, thus the one positive of late year application. But, nitrates are also prone to leaching through the soil, thus not providing full benefit to the grass/plants AND causing groundwater pollution.
There's lots of disagreement about the pros/cons, the overriding caveat is "with proper application". If the thought is to throw some money down without getting full benefits, and perhaps getting some nitrogen to the turf while a good share may evaporate or leach away into the groundwater, well, the primary goal of turf specialists is to grow grass, cost effectiveness and environmental concerns are kinda down the list. Farmers USED to do that, not anymore, cost:benefit is essential. Not as important to the average homeowner, but if going to the time and expense, why not try to maximize benefits.
Nah, just a human Google, a depository containing a wealth of generally useless information. Or suppository, depends on the point of view.
Our kids were kind of reluctant to ask me to help with homework, because I insisted that they understand the concept, why/if/except, instead of just giving them the answers. So, they didn't ask unless completely baffled, usually figured it out themselves: and learned how to learn, which presumably was the point of the homework.
Although I recall a couple of assignments that were HORRIBLE, full of errors. I corrected and graded those, returned them to the teachers. Made for interesting parent/teacher conferences
Nah, just a human Google, a depository containing a wealth of generally useless information. Or suppository, depends on the point of view.
Our kids were kind of reluctant to ask me to help with homework, because I insisted that they understand the concept, why/if/except, instead of just giving them the answers. So, they didn't ask unless completely baffled, usually figured it out themselves: and learned how to learn, which presumably was the point of the homework.
Although I recall a couple of assignments that were HORRIBLE, full of errors. I corrected and graded those, returned them to the teachers. Made for interesting parent/teacher conferences
Is this you?
You're an ass.Nah, just a human Google, a depository containing a wealth of generally useless information. Or suppository, depends on the point of view.
Our kids were kind of reluctant to ask me to help with homework, because I insisted that they understand the concept, why/if/except, instead of just giving them the answers. So, they didn't ask unless completely baffled, usually figured it out themselves: and learned how to learn, which presumably was the point of the homework.
Although I recall a couple of assignments that were HORRIBLE, full of errors. I corrected and graded those, returned them to the teachers. Made for interesting parent/teacher conferences
It's more a matter of air temperature, that dry, uncoated urea (primary source of nitrogen in "lawn" fertilizers) doesn't evaporate as badly in colder temperatures. Hopefully "Indian summer" is done by then, that there aren't too many 70+ degree days wherein the evaporation rate is higher.
How much activity continues below the surface depends on soil temperature, which isn't going to be very warm anymore by then. AND the nitrogen to make it down into the soil from the surface, which necessitates rain/watering prior to frost entering the ground, AND sufficient but not excess moisture in the soil.
Wellllll, my name isn't Bernie and I have "Princess" phones, not rotary dials....Is this you?
My lawn company came yesterday and this was what their sheet said:
Heavy nitrogen application - greatly enhances root development and food storage for winter hardiness and earlier spring green up. Late fall is the time of most active root growth and is the best time to fertilize. Your last mow should be at 2 3/4 inch.
Heavy nitrogen application - greatly enhances root development and food storage for winter hardiness and earlier spring green up. Late fall is the time of most active root growth and is the best time to fertilize. Your last mow should be at 2 3/4 inch.
I actually will set my mower on the highest setting and go out an mulch leaves. I get a ton of sycamore leafs and most of my neighbors red maple leaves (I alway hope for southerly winds though).
During lunch I noticed the neighbor that lives behind us where their ginkgo tree was dropping all their green leaves. Noticed that on a few other types of trees in our neighborhood. Best to get those green leaves raked or mulched otherwise they will damage the grass below. Guy down the street had a ash tree that had at least 4" deep leaves from his tree. I mow his neighbor's yard and about 1' of his property was buried so I had to hit it like 3 times to get them mulched in. Made a huge improvement than what it looked like.
During lunch I noticed the neighbor that lives behind us where their ginkgo tree was dropping all their green leaves. Noticed that on a few other types of trees in our neighborhood. Best to get those green leaves raked or mulched otherwise they will damage the grass below. Guy down the street had a ash tree that had at least 4" deep leaves from his tree. I mow his neighbor's yard and about 1' of his property was buried so I had to hit it like 3 times to get them mulched in. Made a huge improvement than what it looked like.
I mow short and there are those who say mow short and those who say leave long. Me personally I do short because I have noticed areas that were (or left long) matted down and struggled to come back in the spring. So file that under "do what works for you".
