Yard Care for Dummies

[CloneGuy8]

I have a dog so I didn't used to put anything down since a lot of that stuff is linked to cancer in dogs. However, last year I did put Milogranite down and was happy with it.

 

[2forISU]

So much too say...

If you haven't put down a pre-emergent herbicide yet, do so now. The two most common active chemicals to control crabgrass before it germinates are Dimension (dithiopyr) and Barricade (prodiamine). Look at the label of your bag while at the store. Cheap brands are fine.

At this point I would use something with Dimension as soil temps have warmed above 55 degrees which corresponds to the temp that crabgrass is able to germinate. Dimension (dithiopyr) works a little bit even after germination so I'd use that. Follow up with another application of Dimension around June 1st for added protection as these chemicals eventually break down in the soil. A few people choose to apply a pre-emergent in the Fall too to prevent some of the Spring weeds like Henbit, but you need to be aware of max yearly rates on chemicals before adding a 3rd application. Read your application labels and stick to the lbs of product per 1,000 sq. feet. If you graduate to this level, you'll eventually be putting down these weed control chemicals without the fertilizer added. You're main big box stores pretty much always have Nitrogen included with fertilizer though. Sometimes you don't need the fertilizer.

I generally apply a grub control product sometime in later June or sometimes July. There are essentially two kinds of grub control; the kill now type, and the preventative type. Most people don't ever need the "kill now" type unless they didn't put down preventative grub control.

People work so hard in the Spring when they should really do the work in the Fall. If you fertilized correctly in the Fall, you shouldn't need Spring Fertilizer until sometime in May. Regardless, it's best not to fertilize until the grass wakes up and is growing actively.

On weed control, I'd recommend going to your local Ace Hardware and pick up something called Gordon's Speedzone. It will work better on your Spring weeds than standard 3-way weed control (Weed-B-Gone). Add a could of drops of dish soap to the sprayer and either spot spray weeds, or if you have a lot of weeds walk the whole yard and spray. You can buy a marking dye also at Ace that will show you where you have already sprayed and the bonus is your yard is blue until the dye washes away!

I don't recommend weed-n-feed granular products. If applied on slightly wet grass they work ok for very weedy yards, but most homeowners probably don't apply it correctly for maximum efficacy. If your have a lot of weeds, you're probably better off using one of those hose end sprayer weeding products.

I like to use Miloganite as my fertilizer of choice. It's actually re-purposed sewage from Milwaukee but you basically can't burn your yard and adds biology and carbon to your soil. It's much slower acting then chemical fertilizers, but the addition of iron in the Miloganite gives the grass a nice dark green color. Miloganite is sold at many of the big box stores but not all of them carry it. Regular fertilizer is fine too and it has its place in my arsenal.

You don't need to fertilize in the heat of the summer and I wouldn't put anything down in the hot months unless you have a sprinkler system. Even then, fertilize at half the standard rate.

Spring is not the time to seed beyond spot seeding areas destroyed by the dog. If you have already put down pre-emergent for crabgrass than don't seed. It won't work unless you take some very specific steps. If you need to seed some spots after putting down the crabgrass control PM me and I'll let you know how to get that accomplished.

Properly maintained turf type tall fescue lawns rarely need de-thatching. You'll get differing opinions, but core aeration isn't generally worth it unless you are fighting specific soil problems.

Does that kill creeping charlie/ground ivy?

 

[Turn2]

Dude, who really wants to farm grass?

So true again, my friend. Here's the look I'm shooting for.

 

[ianoconnor]

Does that kill creeping charlie/ground ivy?

Yes, but you may have to hit it a couple times.

 

[nocsious3]

Does that kill creeping charlie/ground ivy?

Yes. When you find it at Ace, buy a spreader/sticker to mix with it. It will help the herbicide better coat the weeds and make it more effective. Ace carries a spreader sticker brand by Hi-Yield that will work for about $7. Don't use Speedzone above label rate and don't apply above 80 degrees outside air temp.

Speedzone works much better at low temperatures than standard weed-b-gone and it contains an added chemical to the mix called carfentrazone that really helps burn down the weeds quick. Speedzone can be pretty harsh if used above label rate or temps are too high. You might have to hit the creeping charlie once and then come back for a second application 2 weeks later.

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=75140&parentCategoryId=10&categoryId=154&subCategoryId=1482&type=product&cid=gooshop&source=google_pla&9gtype={ifsearch:search}{ifcontent:content}&9gkw={keyword}&9gad={creative}.1&9gpla={placement}&ctcampaign=4680&ctkwd={product_id}&ctmatch=&ctcreative={Creative}&ctplacement=148349-44622122499

 

[CyForPresident]

Poop on it. Pinching loafs on the lawn y’all!!!

 

[nocsious3]

Yes. When you find it at Ace, buy a spreader/sticker to mix with it. It will help the herbicide better coat the weeds and make it more effective. Ace carries a spreader sticker brand by Hi-Yield that will work for about $7. Don't use Speedzone above label rate and don't apply above 80 degrees outside air temp.

Speedzone works much better at low temperatures at lower temps than standard weed-b-gone and it contains an added chemical to the mix called carfentrazone that really helps burn down the weeds quick. Speedzone can be pretty harsh if used above label rate or temps are too high. You might have to hit the creeping charlie once and then come back for a second application 2 weeks later.

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=75140&parentCategoryId=10&categoryId=154&subCategoryId=1482&type=product&cid=gooshop&source=google_pla&9gtype={ifsearch:search}{ifcontent:content}&9gkw={keyword}&9gad={creative}.1&9gpla={placement}&ctcampaign=4680&ctkwd={product_id}&ctmatch=&ctcreative={Creative}&ctplacement=148349-44622122499

Your other decent option for creeping charlie control would be to buy the stump and poision ivy killer. Again Ace sells a brand by Bonide I believe and the active ingredient is triclopyr. Follow the label for application rates on turf grass. It won't hurt your fescue applied at the turf label rate. A spreader sticker will help with effectiveness. Triclopyr is great for clover and oxalis (wood sorel) too. Using the spreader sticker makes a huge difference. If you already have standard weed-b-gone 3-way herbicide in the garage, you could buy the triclopyr and add it to the weed-b-gone and that will work extremely well as a broadleaf general weed control. Be careful to not over apply and apply it during cooler weather as this is a potent mix that shouldn't harm grass if applied under the right conditions and rates.

Standard 3-way used to have mixing instructions for adding triclopyr I thinkj, but they got rid of that on the label, presumably because consumers were getting too heavy handed and hurting their grass. It's fine to mix if you use your head about it.

 

[Bader]

At this point I would use something with Dimension as soil temps have warmed above 55 degrees which corresponds to the temp that crabgrass is able to germinate.

Can't really speak to everything else, but working in Ag I get to hear complaints constantly about soil temps. It's not even 45 anywhere in Iowa right now

 

[jdcyclone19]

Your other decent option for creeping charlie control would be to buy the stump and poision ivy killer. Again Ace sells a brand by Bonide I believe and the active ingredient is triclopyr. Follow the label for application rates on turf grass. It won't hurt your fescue applied at the turf label rate. A spreader sticker will help with effectiveness. Triclopyr is great for clover and oxalis (wood sorel) too. Using the spreader sticker makes a huge difference. If you already have standard weed-b-gone 3-way herbicide in the garage, you could buy the triclopyr and add it to the weed-b-gone and that will work extremely well as a broadleaf general weed control. Be careful to not over apply and apply it during cooler weather as this is a potent mix that shouldn't harm grass if applied under the right conditions and rates.

Standard 3-way used to have mixing instructions for adding triclopyr I thinkj, but they got rid of that on the label, presumably because consumers were getting too heavy handed and hurting their grass. It's fine to mix if you use your head about it.

A triclophr herbicide is what I used on my creeping charlie. It will fry it depending on dosage. (Gordon's pasture pro plus brush killer?) I cant remember the name of what I use but I use 1.5oz/gal in the hand sprayer. Any more and it will turn the lawn yellow for a bit, but not kill it. I started with 2.5oz/gal which was in the middle, oops.

Lesson here, read the label and always start around the minimum recommendation until you know how your lawn will tolerate it.

 

[AgronAlum]

Can't really speak to everything else, but working in Ag I get to hear complaints constantly about soil temps. It's not even 45 anywhere in Iowa right now

This map showed low to mid 30s earlier in the week so I was confused when he said 55 as well. It’s not going anywhere either. Nothing but cold rain in the 10 day forecast.

This is at 4 inches though. I don’t know **** about lawn care so maybe it’s taken at a shallower depth?

 

[BCClone]

This map showed low to mid 30s earlier in the week so I was confused when he said 55 as well. It’s not going anywhere either. Nothing but cold rain in the 10 day forecast.

This is at 4 inches though. I don’t know **** about lawn care so maybe it’s taken at a shallower depth?

In northern Iowa, we have a pretty good frost layer out there. This rain, as long as it isn’t snow, should suck quite a bit out and that will pop the ground temp a couple degrees pending how much it pulls out. I think lawns are more with 2” I think. But still no way we have 55 up here. Haven’t seen 55 for a high yet.

 

[wxman1]

I was talking with a friend of ours who works for the Pioneer in the test plot stuff and she said they are hopeful to start planting in two weeks. I just laughed.

 

[nocsious3]

The syngenta site says it's in the 50's at 0-10cm. For weed seeds you want to look at the top 2 inches or so. You can use Prodiamine. it's fine.. The sun is pretty powerful this time of year. Just a few nice days and it's will rise significantly. 5 yr average for Ames, IA on 4/13/18 is 53.6 derees.

http://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature

 

[nocsious3]

I was talking with a friend of ours who works for the Pioneer in the test plot stuff and she said they are hopeful to start planting in two weeks. I just laughed.

If it's dry enough in the next 2 weeks I have no doubt.

 

[wxman1]

If it's dry enough in the next 2 weeks I have no doubt.

It may dry but I have my doubts that there will be enough sun and ambient temperature to raise it enough in that amount of time.

 

[jdcyclone19]

It may dry but I have my doubts that there will be enough sun and ambient temperature to raise it enough in that amount of time.

Theres no issue planting in those temps. Germination will just be delayed.

 

[BCClone]

It may dry but I have my doubts that there will be enough sun and ambient temperature to raise it enough in that amount of time.

The biggest issue is the first 24 hours. If initial water imbibe is cold then you will have a mess on your hands and cost yourself a lot of money. If it’s dry and seed gets a warm rain, it will be fine. Unless it’s a hard rain and packs the crust hard.

 

[octaviouspoon]

There’s only one person I’ll take lawn care advice from.....

 

[AgronAlum]

Going to finally put on my first round of weed and feed and am wondering if I should do that tonight or if I should wait until this weekend. This weekend will be a little closer to the next projected rainfall. Does it matter?

I am in central IA.

 

[AttackOfTheClones]

So much too say...

If you haven't put down a pre-emergent herbicide yet, do so now. The two most common active chemicals to control crabgrass before it germinates are Dimension (dithiopyr) and Barricade (prodiamine). Look at the label of your bag while at the store. Cheap brands are fine.

I hire a lawn service (5 applications/yr) and I believe the 'pre-emergent', etc was the first to be applied--last Friday.

Will this prevent new seed from germinating? I was going to add grass seed this week to a couple areas, but now afraid the pre-emergent will prohibit any new growth

thanks in advance