Getting some work in on a couple projects after some emergency repairs on both my neighbors siding and the roof line on my house which was causing it to rain inside of my garage.
Laundry table getting mounted above a front load washer and dryer. Needs another coat of stain and the Arm R Seal recommended earlier in this thread. Supported with some MDF and a run of steel to stop it from sagging on the bottom side.
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Fair. I shouldn’t have used trash as a descriptor. DeWalt has massively improved in the last 5 years. But from personal experience they are still the “occasional use” type brand and won’t make it longevity wise. Now, I’ve HEARD that if you can manage to buy from a construction only retailer that DeWalts commercial tools are waaayyyy better than the off the self tools from Home Depot etc.I wouldn't say DeWalt is trash but how many different battery connection styles have they gone through in the last decade? I bet it's 3 or 4 where as Milwaukee and Ryobi have kept the same battery housing while updating the internals so if your tool craps out your old batteries aren't worthless. That's most of the reason why I've gone with Milwaukee for my cordless stuff.
That’s a bummer there. I’ve had trouble with thin wide panels like that before. Now I don’t do anything like that without bread boarding the ends.So the top in the picture above started bowing and splitting over the last week and a half with the temp and humidity change and needs rebuilt. It was dead straight when glued up. I need to buy a moisture tester. Any suggestions on which one to buy?
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That’s a bummer there. I’ve had trouble with thin wide panels like that before. Now I don’t do anything like that without bread boarding the ends.
I normally do it with a handheld router when I do it. I have a slot cutting bit to cut the groove and a straight bit for the tongue. You can make a jig for your router to cut them both with a router though.Bread boarding seems almost impossible without a good table saw and a dado stack, correct? Cutting a mortise that long seems pretty difficult as well. Is there enough material left on a 1 by that the tongue won’t just crack if the boards warp as bad as these did? If I put a straight edge side to side it’s probably a half inch of bow.
I think I’m just going to eat the cost and source some better wood this time. I’m going to weld up a metal frame for the underside to help keep everything in place.
I normally do it with a handheld router when I do it. I have a slot cutting bit to cut the groove and a straight bit for the tongue. You can make a jig for your router to cut them both with a router though.
Usually I use a 1/2” deep groove when I do it with the slot cutter. I haven’t used dowels on them before but I do want to try drawboring sometime though.How deep do you cut the tongue and do you just use dowels to attach it or do you glue it?
10” or 12” depends on how wide the boards are your planning on using, I’d look at the cross cut capacity and 45 degree capacity. As far as brands go if you can get a deal on a DeWalt, Milwaukee or Makita any of those would be fine.Anyone have advise on sliding meiter saws? Re-building a deck next summer and am wondering what to get.
10" or 12"? Brand?
Thank you
DeWalt and Ridgid have 12’s for $350 right now.Anyone have advise on sliding meiter saws? Re-building a deck next summer and am wondering what to get.
10" or 12"? Brand?
Thank you
Anyone have advise on sliding meiter saws? Re-building a deck next summer and am wondering what to get.
10" or 12"? Brand?
Thank you
Where are the best places for wood supply in the DSM area? Am I stuck with big box stores for sanded plywood and hardwoods? Or are there other places. I don’t yet have a planet or jointer, so I need the pieces to be prepped when I buy them.
Anyone have advise on sliding meiter saws? Re-building a deck next summer and am wondering what to get.
10" or 12"? Brand?
Thank you
I ended up with a Dewalt 12” slider last year and it has done well but if you plan on moving it around, a slider is awkward and heavy so keep that in mind. It was around 350 at Christmas time. Blades are also quite a bit more expensive for a 12 vs a 10.
Anyone have advise on sliding meiter saws? Re-building a deck next summer and am wondering what to get.
10" or 12"? Brand?
Thank you
Where are the best places for wood supply in the DSM area? Am I stuck with big box stores for sanded plywood and hardwoods? Or are there other places. I don’t yet have a planet or jointer, so I need the pieces to be prepped when I buy them.
Woodsmith store has good quality wood, I'd start there. You are going to pay a little more for it though. You can also go to liberty hardwoods in Ankeny.
WoodsmithI got a 10” ryobi compound sliding miter saw 5 years ago and it worked well. That one was good for the intro DIYer like me (I was a total noob back then). It had some minor accuracy issues but otherwise did the job with no complaints.
Home Depot has the ryobi 10” saw plus stand at $390. The DeWalt 12” saw plus stand is $550.If you can afford the extra $160 and you plan to keep this saw and use it, id go with DeWalt in that scenario with the “buy once, cry once” approach. If you don’t plan on doing much work with the saw and will occasionally use it, I’d go cheaper in that case, speaking for myself. I just replaced my Ryobi with the DeWalt but I do a lot of DIY and woodworking projects every year.