If the cars were equal and you bought out of state to save $80 then that is a **** move.My wife bought her last car by looking at one when she was in Omaha on business. Then she came home and told the local dealer what she'd pay, and he came back $80 higher than the Omaha guy. She walked and called up the Omaha dealer. They even drove the car to our house and dropped it off with a full tank of gas.
If the cars were equal and you bought out of state to save $80 then that is a **** move.
Ok Tre and Agronomist, I have a follow up question haha.
If the vehicle I'm looking at has an MSRP of $25,500 and the X-Plan price is $21,700 (with the current rebates) do I pull the trigger or could I do better the old fashioned way? I'm more than clueless so any advice/perspective is appreciated.
The hometown dealer lost my business over $80?You sold out the hometown dealer over $80?
meh. i'm in sales and have let guys walk over $250 on 60,000 piece of equipment. bottom line is bottom line for me anyway. best advice, tell them you're paying cash. ****s up the whole-what do you want your payment to be angle for them. a good salesman will get an offer out of you-not just an offer but a realistic one. they will box you in to try for the quick pressure deal. whether you want to or not going in, it will happen once there-even if you do walk away. it's a science and the good ones are great at it. end of the day, make sure you buy a vehicle that's right for you, not because you think you are getting a good deal. after being in sales, when i buy something i don't want to do the dance. just give me the best price on the vehicle i WANT, and if it's fair i'll take it. i understand they have to make money. if i want it bad enough, i'll pay for it. if i don't i won't. people get too caught up in the "good deal". i'm here to tell you-they are all going to make money on you. sure you can whittle that margin down, but you are not going to fleece the dealer.
Is buying my HDMI cable online for $10 instead of going to my local electronics store and spending $15 a **** move? If so, fine, you're entitled to that opinion. The guy knew where he needed to be. He could have made it happen but chose not to. If it's a **** move on my part, it's just as much a **** move on his part.If the cars were equal and you bought out of state to save $80 then that is a **** move.
Just to clarify, I don't think there was any bad blood created. He didn't want to come down $80 and we were happy to spend less. It's too bad the deal didn't happen, but I don't think anyone was losing sleep over it.IMO, It was kind of a **** move on both sides. Creating bad blood over $80 is stupid and could cost your dealership the servicing which is what brings in good money.
I also know that certain cars like the Honda Fit have very little wiggle room compared to something like a 2013 Chevy truck that is about to be redesigned.
If the cars were equal and you bought out of state to save $80 then that is a **** move.
Okay I'm a month or two out from buying a different vehicle. Will probably buy a Chevy Traverse or a Dodge Durango. Not going to give the dealer the advantage of knowing that I've zeroed in on one type. Going to go the used car route.
It's been a while since I haggled with a car salesman. I work in sales, so the thought of it doesn't bother me at all. Actually looking forward to the game. Am curious some of the techinques some of you more regular car buyers use to score a deal?
I'm keeping my current car so no trade to deal with and I think that's to my advantage as dealers don't like to deal with them unless they can get them cheap?
I've debated not even going into the local dealer and negoating the deal over the phone before even stepping foot in the door. Not sure if that will really help me?
May try coming in the end of the month or end of the week if the quota thing really works?
Looking forward to responses!
Blue book values are largely junk in general. Go find a similar car on their lot and use the number they are asking against them.