baseboard before or after carpet install?
- Thread starter isubeatle
- Start date
But there's nothing you can't do with a phone, right? It's all about where you spend your time.
Definitely baseboard first. You can mark where the studs are on the concrete for a solid install of base. Use a piece of 3/8" thick trim as your 'guide' or shim for the height of the base off of the floor. Depending on the floor, you may find that the concrete is wavy and the gaps left will be + - the 3/8". The tack strip and the carpet are the only components that are up to wall. Carpet pad thickness is irrelevant. The 3/8" gap will allow carpet installers to tuck carpet under base for the best look, as long as you are having a plush or 'frieze' carpet installed. IF you are using a thinner carpet like a commercial carpet, you will want to keep an eye on that gap so that it doesn't exceed the height of the carpet on a piece of tackstrip (or if it is being glued down). This will look bad.
As far as mitering vs coping goes, I hate coping, so I always pre-cut some scraps of base to see how the corners look with a perfect 45' cut, and then adjust miter for precise cut. If you do want to use coping method, cut one board square and tight to corner, then cut next board at 45' cut, and use coping saw to follow the line of where the 45' cut starts, right to the top tip of mitered cut. That make sense?
As far as mitering vs coping goes, I hate coping, so I always pre-cut some scraps of base to see how the corners look with a perfect 45' cut, and then adjust miter for precise cut. If you do want to use coping method, cut one board square and tight to corner, then cut next board at 45' cut, and use coping saw to follow the line of where the 45' cut starts, right to the top tip of mitered cut. That make sense?
I always done baseboard first. I made several 3/8" MDF spacers that set the baseboard on to space it evenly off the concrete. I believe the carpet installers (most) will tell you they like to have the baseboard there first with their recommended gap. I've used 3/8" but check with your carpet provider.
PS...I didn't read other replies. I'm sure I've repeated much of what was already said but I had to get my 2 cents in
PS...I didn't read other replies. I'm sure I've repeated much of what was already said but I had to get my 2 cents in
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thanks for all the advice guys. sounds like i'll be putting up some trim tonight while i listen to the game
I do trim work for a living and have heard many people say that just mitering your corners are easier. I actually dont like that way as I think coping is faster. If you know how to cope, there is no test fitting your corners. It also looks better in my opinion but coping isnt something that everyone can do or is familiar with. If you have any questions, just pm me and I will gladly try to help out if you need it
I would guess you could do it both ways but when I did my basement I did the trim first. I have had water seep into my basement before so when I completely gutted it out and started over I hung the drywall about 1" off the floor and left a slight gap between the floor and trim then put the carpet down without a pad and did not tack it down just in case I got water again I could easily roll back the cheap carpet I put in to dry it out. All depends on your situation but you talk about painting the baseboard, why not cut it all first and make sure it all lines up then pait it before you tack it in? Whenever I have replaced trim I cut it first, then sand and stain before installing it to avoid getting anything on the floor or wall. As long as you are sure about your cuts there is no need to install the baseboard then paint it.
I miter my corners then fill with wood putty if there is any gap. As long as you use the right blade on your miter saw you should be able to cut some tight fitting corners.
don't you have to fill in the nail holes and then sand it smooth and paint those little areas?
Depends on the size of the hole I suppose. If you use a pin nailer, you can likely just paint over the hole to cover. If you're installing by pre-drilling holes, and using a hammer and nails, then you'll probably have to fill and paint. In that case, you'd likely have to fill them anyway, whether you've painted the rest of the trim beforehand or not.
Agree. The baseboard, shoe and drywall should not touch the basement concrete. Hold all of them off the floor 1/2" or more. Allow some air to move under the wall.
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