Tree suggestions between property

[cyflier]

I plan on building on a acreage lot that I purchased in the next year or so. I am wanting to put some trees between the neighboring property for privacy and to separate the properties. Any suggestions of trees or combination of trees. I’ve highlighted in the pic with a green shade where I’m referencing.

 

[SECyclone]

Assuming you’re in Iowa I’d go with a blue spruce just off personal experience. I think as they mature they have a better look. Doesn’t look like you have neighbors right now so you won’t need something fast growing. Plus be a good wind block

 

[Cycsk]

Assuming you’re in Iowa I’d go with a blue spruce just off personal experience. I think as they mature they have a better look. Doesn’t look like you have neighbors right now so you won’t need something fast growing. Plus be a good wind block

We have a similar situation in which we are going to move a fence out to the property line. However, it is on a slope, so we will lose visual privacy. What can we plant in place of the former fence that will give privacy quickly?

 

[SECyclone]

We have a similar situation in which we are going to move a fence out to the property line. However, it is on a slope, so we will lose visual privacy. What can we plant in place of the former fence that will give privacy quickly?

Thuja green giant will grow quickly

 

[Cycsk]

Thuja green giant will grow quickly

How large can they be at the time of transplanting?

 

[arobb]

Two rows of Eastern red cedar will block anything. They are native, relatively free of pest and disease issues, and grow fairly quickly.

https://www.extension.iastate.edu/forestry/iowa_trees/trees/eastern_redcedar.html

 

[BoxsterCy]

I plan on building on a acreage lot that I purchased in the next year or so. I am wanting to put some trees between the neighboring property for privacy and to separate the properties. Any suggestions of trees or combination of trees. I’ve highlighted in the pic with a green shade where I’m referencing.

Hard to get a scale on the size of your lot or length of the property line. Assuming top is north and you are lot 8 which means you don't need it as a windbreak since you are windward of prevailing winds from the line you highlighted. If you are looking for a full screening you can still plant a windbreak style with several rows or go with a single row if you are just looking to define the edge. If you are doing a single row I would maybe mix it up as far as plants otherwise you end up with the missing tooth look if some die. Anything you plant as a row will have some snow piling impact on the neighbors lot. Also, at the length (assumed) of that line evergreens will be acculatively pretty expensive even if small, but worth the money IMHO.

The ISU extension has some publications on windbreaks that could be useful as a reference when planting for visual only.

Farmstead Windbreaks: Establishment and Care

Farmstead Windbreaks: Planning

 

[BoxsterCy]

How large can they be at the time of transplanting?

Smaller will be easier to establish and might need less watering care initially. If you have the space the native White Cedar variety Thuja occidentalis is pretty hardy, grows relatively fast once established and large. Might not be a good choice if the soil is sandy. Some of the nursery varieties of Thuja, arborvitae, do grow pretty slow so i kinda like the native variety when you have the space..

 

[Bobber]

Two rows of Eastern red cedar will block anything. They are native, relatively free of pest and disease issues, and grow fairly quickly.

https://www.extension.iastate.edu/forestry/iowa_trees/trees/eastern_redcedar.html

Thought ISU's description was rather amusing. "Redcedar is, by most descriptions, a rather ugly tree when compared to other conifers, but it is a very tough and versatile tree."

Would agree.

 

[arobb]

Thought ISU's description was rather amusing. "Redcedar is, by most descriptions, a rather ugly tree when compared to other conifers, but it is a very tough and versatile tree."

Would agree.

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO they look a lot nicer than the diseased and dying pines, spruce, etc., that were planted for "looks". Also, deer won't eat cedars like they do with many other species.

 

[CyArob]

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO they look a lot nicer than the diseased and dying pines, spruce, etc., that were planted for "looks". Also, deer won't eat cedars like they do with many other species.

Yeah. Spruce, especially blue spruce are really susceptible to fungal infections in this area that kill off their needles once the trees mature.

 

[dirtyninety]

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. IMHO they look a lot nicer than the diseased and dying pines, spruce, etc., that were planted for "looks". Also, deer won't eat cedars like they do with many other species.

I like cedars....they also look better than the arborvitae with the perpetual orange construction fence around it to deer proof it. Do not get much stuff that you have to deer-proof. An alternating hedge of cedar and blue spruce. Get a white pine or two because they are majectically beautiful, but you'll be in the deer-proofing business for 5 or 6 years with it, not so much from the eating, but a buck girdling it.

 

[dirtyninety]

Almost forgot, the cedars can be free if you just go dig them up in places where they volunteer and people would mow over them anyway.

 

[Dr.bannedman]

plant more than one variety. just in case one goes down.

 

[FerShizzle]

Arborvitaes (thuja) make great privacy borders and are relatively cheap. You can also plant them in a dense pattern and not have to worry about them becoming overgrown like cedars which sprawl out a bit more.

 

[Bestaluckcy]

If your soil is of a heavy clay base you may have trouble growing some conifers. We have that problem with our soil near Knoxville. My understanding is that in the summers when the soil drys then hardens it tears the roots from the spruce and pine trees, which then kills them.

 

[dafarmer]

Don't do anything, In five years you will have a windbreak of red cedars and mulberry trees. then 5 years later you can hire an excavator to pull them out. It's Iowa people, they grow overnight. Or hemp, the neighbors can help keep them under control.

 

[BCClone]

Not knowing exactly where, I will give suggetions for Northern Iowa since that is what I know. Plant a front row of some sort of popular trees. Norwegian or Aus seems to grow the fastest and you just break off branches and soak in water to get roots started and new ones established. Second line, plant a coniferous tree that will gain height moderately in speed and look decent. As these get established, you will start dropping the populars. The third row will be a non-coniferous tree, quite often maple trees up here. Many used to use ash trees since they will explode upwards but since most are being dropped, that is not an option.

 

[BoxsterCy]

plant more than one variety. just in case one goes down.

Truth, some sort of alternating pattern of trees can beat the missing tooth look when something inevitably dies.

 

[Sterling4Cy]

Two rows of Eastern red cedar will block anything. They are native, relatively free of pest and disease issues, and grow fairly quickly.

https://www.extension.iastate.edu/forestry/iowa_trees/trees/eastern_redcedar.html

Agree with anything native. I'd do 2-3 rows stair stepping up in height. 1st row smaller conifers, the red cedar for example, then move up to a white pine or something similar. will definitely serve as a good wind block and also block peoples view of your property, year round.