Sort of unique plumbing situation

ruxCYtable

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Aug 29, 2007
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Had our basement finished this winter but the only place for a toilet was in the laundry room, which was left unfinished. I have access to water right there and there is a rough-in so it can be done relatively easily once I get past this one problem.

The drain is a 4" cast iron pipe and it is a full 6" below the surface of the concrete. I have looked and can't find a flange with a shaft that long (heheh, I said shaft.) I talked to the plumbing "expert" at Home Depot, who recommended I use a 4x3 reducer, coat it in PVC cement and put it in backwards, then jam the 4" pvc into the reducer to bring it to floor level and attach the flange to that. With me so far? Well I get home and I'm looking at the directions it says you can't bond PVC to cast iron this way.

Next thing I consider trying is one of these rubber fernco couplings, which seems like it would be great. Problem is, the hole to the cast iron pipe is SO tight, I can get the coupling in there but I can't get a tool in to tighten it.

Latest idea I'm thinking of trying is a threaded rubber "donut" like this one

http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donuts-o-rings/donuts

jamming that into the cast iron pipe and then jamming the pvc pipe into that.

I realize to experts I'm probably coming off like an idiot (I fully admit, I'm pretty much king of the dip-*****) but I could really use any advice the smartest fanbase in the world can offer.
 

ruxCYtable

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Ask This old House last week, it had a PVC rubber fitting with the toilet flange that went into the cast iron pipe as you tighten the screws it expanded the rubber seal. About 17 minutes.

http://m.video.pbs.org/video/2365095743/

Have you checked if one of these is long enough?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-in-PVC-DWV-Replacement-Closet-Flange-43539/100139480

Other wise a cast to plastic mission is probably your best bet, may have to knock out some concrete to tighten.

I believe those donuts are made to go in the hub of cast pipe, not sure if the end your dealing with is a hub end or not.

Good Luck
Thanks for trying to help but this is unfortunately not long enough.
 

nfrine

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Famous words from an old (wise) plumber: "Remember, it all comes down to plumbing in life...if the crapper ain't working nothing else really matters much". Get it done right.
 

Acylum

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As long as you can run the section of drain pipe from the toilet flange down inside the existing 4" cast about 8-12",I wouldn't worry a lot about this being a tight connection. It's not like it's under pressure. Of course, I doubt this would be up to code, and I probably wouldn't do it this way if you're prone to sewer back-ups.
 

CtownCyclone

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Why don't you just call a plumber, spend a couple hundred dollars and have it done correctly?

This is what I'd lean towards. I consider myself handy, but I'm not messing around with a poop line. This is not going to be too unique to a plumber, and they will know how to do it such that you don't end up with poo where you don't want it.
 

NebrClone

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Need a tight connection to prevent sewer gases from getting into the house.
 

RubyClone

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jbhtexas

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As long as you can run the section of drain pipe from the toilet flange down inside the existing 4" cast about 8-12",I wouldn't worry a lot about this being a tight connection. It's not like it's under pressure. Of course, I doubt this would be up to code, and I probably wouldn't do it this way if you're prone to sewer back-ups.

:nah::no:

Need a tight connection to prevent sewer gases from getting into the house.
:yes:
 

ruxCYtable

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I'm kinda missing where the problem lies. Is it that the closet flange isn't "deep" enough to reach the cast iron 6" down. Sounds like it but I have no idea where this reducer stuff is headed.

Is this kinda what you're after?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbFQcCt2qa8

or use this?

http://www.amazon.com/Ez-Flo-40056-Adjustable-Closet-Flange/dp/B005E83NR0

Can't you make your own extension? Use a couple of coupling pieces and some stock schedule 40.
Yes, the flange isn't deep enough to reach the pipe.

Regarding the youtube video, I watched that one already, the problem with it is I'm being told you can't cement PVC to cast iron. If that weren't an issue, I could easily make an extension.

The Amazon link looks good but I don't see any specifications stating exactly how long it is. From the user comment it sounds as if it might work.

To those suggesting I call a plumber...well yeah...I would. But it really should be incredibly easy once I get past this one minor roadblock. Everything I need is there and I've installed multiple toilets before. Plus, I'm wanting to have it done before the weekend cuz I'm breaking in the man cave with some guests.
 

RubyClone

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Yes, the flange isn't deep enough to reach the pipe.

Regarding the youtube video, I watched that one already, the problem with it is I'm being told you can't cement PVC to cast iron. If that weren't an issue, I could easily make an extension.

The Amazon link looks good but I don't see any specifications stating exactly how long it is. From the user comment it sounds as if it might work.

To those suggesting I call a plumber...well yeah...I would. But it really should be incredibly easy once I get past this one minor roadblock. Everything I need is there and I've installed multiple toilets before. Plus, I'm wanting to have it done before the weekend cuz I'm breaking in the man cave with some guests.


You don't cement it. You use a flexible pvc coupling. Note the P3000

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-4-in-x-4-in-PVC-Shielded-Coupling-P1002-44SR/100205758


Edit: Ok - reread your OP. Why is it so tight? Can you not expose more area around the pipe? It's a pain the arse, but will probably be your best result to cut back some crete and do it properly.

BTW - go back to HD and slap that "expert". And that's too bad, I love HD and usually they have great associates.
 
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ruxCYtable

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You don't cement it. You use a flexible pvc coupling. Note the P3000

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-4-in-x-4-in-PVC-Shielded-Coupling-P1002-44SR/100205758


Edit: Ok - reread your OP. Why is it so tight? Can you not expose more area around the pipe? It's a pain the arse, but will probably be your best result to cut back some crete and do it properly.

BTW - go back to HD and slap that "expert". And that's too bad, I love HD and usually they have great associates.
Yeah, I think I'm just going to have to break up some more concrete. Didn't want to do it but that's just how it's going to be!

OK thanks all, that's the route I'm going.
 

Acylum

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Nov 18, 2006
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What happens when you have to change the toilet, or replace the wax ring? Just do it really fast before too much sewer gas comes in?

To do either one of those, that opening is exposed anyway. So I'm not following you...
 

jbhtexas

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The wax ring seals between the toilet and the flange. It doesn't guarantee a seal between the flange and the floor. There usually isn't a seal between the flange and the floor, so sewer gas will flow between the smaller PVC pipe and larger cast iron pipe, and can seep out between the flange and the floor. That why flange inserts as pictured below have the rubber gasket to seal against the inside of the larger cast iron pipe.

17179_1201964650496_1269967698_30467436_1826695_n.jpg
 
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ruxCYtable

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I got it done without having to break up anymore cement. The solution was unconventional to say the least but once I figured it out it was so easy I'm almost embarrassed.

First, I bought one of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-4-in-PVC-DWV-Gasket-Closet-Flange-886-GP/202313119

I cannibalized the rubber gasket and put it on the end of a 3" PVC and jammed it into the cast iron drain pipe. I cut the PVC to floor level, tested for leaks, and filled the hole back in with cement. After the cement dries I'll used the flange I bought in step 1 and attach it the old-fashioned way with PVC cement since I used the gasket elsewhere.