Casting Iron Table Saw Rusting

[CyinCo]

Anyone else own a cast iron table saw? I have a Ridgid table saw that has developed some areas of rust. Nothing deep yet. I have cleaned the surface with scotchbrite pads and WD-40 (something suggested by a forum I visited) and then applied Johnson's paste wax to the surface. But it still appears to be getting the rust stains in the same place as before. I can't seem to prevent the rusting.

I had the saw for 4 years in CO without any rust but the air is much much drier there.

Anyone have a suggestion?

 

[chadm]

I would suggest buffing it down with a course brush to get the rust out. Then try a wax to help seal it.

 

[C.John]

I have Delta Unisaw and I use Top Saver that I bought at Rockler. It seals and lubricates.

On my jointer I've used paste wax since new and never had an issue with that either.

I also keep my cabinet saw under a cloth cover when not being used. It keeps the saw clean and allows moisture to wick away and not be trapped.

Good luck, I HATE rust when it come to my tools.

 

[CyinCo]

I have Delta Unisaw and I use Top Saver that I bought at Rockler. It seals and lubricates.

On my jointer I've used paste wax since new and never had an issue with that either.

I also keep my cabinet saw under a cloth cover when not being used. It keeps the saw clean and allows moisture to wick away and not be trapped.

Good luck, I HATE rust when it come to my tools.

The place I'm having a bear of time with is the miter groove built into the surface. I can get the rust completely gone (at least to the naked eye) and polished and then waxed but it seems to be back after a week or so. Again, nothing bad or deep but it really bothers me that I need to do constant maintenance to keep it out.

Also, sorry about the title misspelling.

 

[DaddyMac]

Yes - I have the Ridgid contractor saw as well, I imagine the same one you're talking about.

After the winter, the top was covered in rust.

I got a two part cleaning product from Sears up on Merle Hay (this was a year or so ago) First part was a cleaner and the second was a preventer.

White bottle with red lettering. I'll try and dig up the brand name. The two bottles came as a package and ran about $25.

As for the mitre slots- I used a rag and flathead screwdriver and some elbow grease. Make sure to check on the corners, sides and underside as well. Rust "travels".

Anyway, worked great for me. Really haven't had a re-occurrance. Threw some on my cast iron jointer as well, and it's been fine.

 

[DaddyMac]

Here ya go. Sears says they have it in stock at both DSM area stores.

Hope it works for you.

Boeshield T-9 Rust Protection Cleaner - Model T90128 at Sears.com

BTW - I came across it after doing some searching and finding it recommended on a few wordworking sites.

 

[C.John]

Of course it's happing in a spot that will be hard to polish.

I wonder if something like T-9 would work better. It displaces any moisture, while the paste wax will trap any moisture, allowing the rust stains to return?

LINK

 

[C.John]

DaddyMac beat me to it.

 

[CyinCo]

Thanks guys. Two recommendations of the same thing is good enough for me. I'm going to pick some up. I need to get to Sears anyway to return one of my Lithium drill batteries that quit taking a charge.

Thanks again.

 

[Phaedrus]

Having grown up around "real" tools in a "real" shop, I am ROTFL about a bunch of guys wetting their panties about a little surface rust on a cast saw body....

 

[CyinCo]

Having grown up around "real" tools in a "real" shop, I am ROTFL about a bunch of guys wetting their panties about a little surface rust on a cast saw body....

Yeah, growing up on a farm, we had "real" tool laying all over. And they did serve the purpose. However, I wasn't making cabinets then.

 

[Jerry1982]

Yeah, growing up on a farm, we had "real" tool laying all over. And they did serve the purpose. However, I wasn't making cabinets then.

You're making cabinets with a Rigid tablesaw? Ouch.

 

[DaddyMac]

You're making cabinets with a Rigid tablesaw? Ouch.

So have I. Works fine.

 

[GoCy]

Boeshield T9 is awsome stuff. Boeing developed it to protect aircraft parts from corrosion. Now, it's used alot to protect things that get alot of salt spray, like marine boat motors. It sprays on as a liquid, so it can penetrate into the pits and scratches in the tablesaw surface. It then sets up like a paste wax. Just make sure that when you wipe it off after spraying it on, don't leave too thick of a layer, or else it will dry kind of tacky, and the boards won't slide as easily on the surface.

 

[CyinCo]

You're making cabinets with a Rigid tablesaw? Ouch.

uh....yeah. Why? I did lots of research before buying my saw. The fence is fantastic. I can cut rip 24" wide. The fence fastens down tight with the flip of a the wrist and measurements to the blade from the fence are very accurate on the scale (I still measure with my tape, though). The motor is on springs that keep the tension just right and softens the "jerk" if a board binds up. It also has a wheeled lift system as an option that I bought it works really well. I can raise and lower the saw with just a kick. The surface is large and easy to work on.

In my opinion, making nice cabinets is more about your blade than your saw.

 

[Jerry1982]

uh....yeah. Why? I did lots of research before buying my saw. The fence is fantastic. I can cut rip 24" wide. The fence fastens down tight with the flip of a the wrist and measurements to the blade from the fence are very accurate on the scale (I still measure with my tape, though). The motor is on springs that keep the tension just right and softens the "jerk" if a board binds up. It also has a wheeled lift system as an option that I bought it works really well. I can raise and lower the saw with just a kick. The surface is large and easy to work on.

In my opinion, making nice cabinets is more about your blade than your saw.

Glad you're happy with your saw. I've been using Forrest blades. What about you?

In my opinion making nice cabinets has more to do with the shaper, jointer and planer than the saw, however quality wood shouldn't be discounted. Lots of sandpaper too. But we could go on forever... it usually starts with a saw.

 

[DaddyMac]

uh....yeah. Why? I did lots of research before buying my saw. The fence is fantastic. I can cut rip 24" wide. The fence fastens down tight with the flip of a the wrist and measurements to the blade from the fence are very accurate on the scale (I still measure with my tape, though). The motor is on springs that keep the tension just right and softens the "jerk" if a board binds up. It also has a wheeled lift system as an option that I bought it works really well. I can raise and lower the saw with just a kick. The surface is large and easy to work on.

In my opinion, making nice cabinets is more about your blade than your saw.

24"? Must not be the same as mine. I think mine is 20" left, 36 right.

TS3660 Cast Iron Table Saw - RIDGID Professional Tools

I did alot of research as well and Ridgid came out highly regarded for a contractor model. What really sold me was the fence, width of the rip and the mobile base. That is sweet. And after lugging my little benchtop around the garage for years, a very welcome addition. Came down to the Ridgid contractor, or the Steel City cabinet. Really liked that Steel City with the 3hp motor, but couldn't justify the x2 price at this point.

Have you guys seen this new line of granite top saws? Interesting

WoodNet Forums: New ridgid saw with granite top=

Jerry - I haven't bothered taking the factory blade off the table saw yet. Haven't really had a need as it rips decent enough. However, when I had the benchtop craftsman POS, I used to rip with a straight edge and my circular - and became rather partial to Freud Diablo blades.

I'm certainly not experienced or savy enough to have a valuable opinion, however.

 

[Jerry1982]

I'm sure some of the engineer types have seen/heard of this before. Pretty cool. Maybe someday I'll try one. Check out the video. SawStop

 

[ripvdub]

Having grown up around "real" tools in a "real" shop, I am ROTFL about a bunch of guys wetting their panties about a little surface rust on a cast saw body....

Why are you here?

 

[CyinCo]

24"? Must not be the same as mine. I think mine is 20" left, 36 right.

TS3660 Cast Iron Table Saw - RIDGID Professional Tools

I did alot of research as well and Ridgid came out highly regarded for a contractor model. What really sold me was the fence, width of the rip and the mobile base. That is sweet. And after lugging my little benchtop around the garage for years, a very welcome addition. Came down to the Ridgid contractor, or the Steel City cabinet. Really liked that Steel City with the 3hp motor, but couldn't justify the x2 price at this point.

Have you guys seen this new line of granite top saws? Interesting

WoodNet Forums: New ridgid saw with granite top=

Jerry - I haven't bothered taking the factory blade off the table saw yet. Haven't really had a need as it rips decent enough. However, when I had the benchtop craftsman POS, I used to rip with a straight edge and my circular - and became rather partial to Freud Diablo blades.

I'm certainly not experienced or savy enough to have a valuable opinion, however.

Nope, must not be the same. I have the TS2412. I have 24" on one side and 12 on the other. So far, I haven't need anything larger.

Here is my saw:

RIDGID Woodworking Tools for a Lifetime

The only difference is I bought the lift system so I can move it around on casters.