Question for tree experts

CarlHungus

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I'm thinking of planting another tree in our back yard. We have one ash tree (we think, anyways), and are wanting to plant a red maple. Any tips on doing this? Can I do it this Fall, or should I wait until next Spring?
 

BCClone

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I'm thinking of planting another tree in our back yard. We have one ash tree (we think, anyways), and are wanting to plant a red maple. Any tips on doing this? Can I do it this Fall, or should I wait until next Spring?


First, dig a hole. Much easier this way.

I would wait until about may. Let the ground warm up some. Most places have a one year warranty also, so if winter kills it, you can replace it right away. Autumn blaze maples are faster growing.
 

coolerifyoudid

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Feb 8, 2013
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I'm thinking of planting another tree in our back yard. We have one ash tree (we think, anyways), and are wanting to plant a red maple. Any tips on doing this? Can I do it this Fall, or should I wait until next Spring?

If your other tree is an ash tree, you may want to have an arborist take a look at it before deciding on putting another tree in. I'm not sure how wide-spread they are, but the ash borer has been destroying ash trees like crazy here in KC. Our subdivision has lost probably half of the trees in the last 2 years.

You may want to assess the existing tree first before trying to complement it with another. It may change what you do.
 
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StClone

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I'm thinking of planting another tree in our back yard. We have one ash tree (we think, anyways), and are wanting to plant a red maple. Any tips on doing this? Can I do it this Fall, or should I wait until next Spring?

By "Red Maple" I am assuming you mean a red leaf cultivar of Norway Maple which has reddish brown to maroon leaf color when fully leafed out. Fall color of this variety is dull.

You should not have any problem planting it in the fall providing you keep it well-watered through the winter. The big thing to look for when selecting a potted or balled-in-burlap is to be sure the tree has not been in the pot or balled since last spring which would cause root stunting.

Norway Maples are very hardy but are best in the northern half of the U.S. "Red Maples" like moist soil to grow to a nice size. When planting do not plant too deeply but keep the top roots an inch or more under soil level.
 
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CarlHungus

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By "Red Maple" I am assuming you mean a red leaf cultivar of Norway Maple which has reddish brown to maroon leaf color when fully leafed out. Fall color of this variety is dull.

You should not have any problem planting it in the fall providing you keep it well-watered through the winter. The big thing to look for when selecting a potted or balled-in-burlap is to be sure the tree has not been in the pot or balled since last spring which would cause root stunting.

Norway Maples are very hardy but are best in the northern half of the U.S. "Red Maples" like moist soil to grow to a nice size. When planting do not plant too deeply but keep the top roots an inch or more under soil level.

I think the one I'm talking about is a little different than a Norway Maple (basing this off of a quick google search so I could be wrong). I was thinking along the lines of one of these:
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/AutumnBlaze.htm
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/OctoberGlory.htm

Good info though. I feel better about planting in the fall
 

BCClone

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Not exactly sure.
I think the one I'm talking about is a little different than a Norway Maple (basing this off of a quick google search so I could be wrong). I was thinking along the lines of one of these:
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/AutumnBlaze.htm
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/OctoberGlory.htm

Good info though. I feel better about planting in the fall


Red maple quite often refers to a royal red maple. Make sure it's not that if you want a faster true. Royal reds are a little more fussy than an autumn blaze. I like Debra maples, they will have 3-4 color changes throughout the year.
 

ISUAgronomist

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Nov 5, 2009
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On the farm, IA
Plant in the fall after leaves have dropped from the tree. This will limit water requirements and transplant shock as well as allow the tree to focus on root growth until the soil freezes in the winter. Spring/Summer planting is more difficult on the tree because it will be trying to grow new leaves, branches, and roots at the same time.
 

CarlHungus

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Feb 19, 2012
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When planting, spring or fall, remember that sod is competition to the tree. It helps to cut the sod back, then mulch. Arbor Day Foundation has a tree planting guide with some good suggestions, https://www.arborday.org/trees/planting/containerized.cfm

Thanks for this, very helpful. A question about watering; it says to do so every 7-10 days, I'm assuming you wouldn't do this in the winter?

Also I've been reading that is is better for the roots to dig a square hole rather than a circle; anyone else every heard of this?
 

capitalcityguy

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Jun 14, 2007
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Des Moines
Thanks for this, very helpful. A question about watering; it says to do so every 7-10 days, I'm assuming you wouldn't do this in the winter?

Also I've been reading that is is better for the roots to dig a square hole rather than a circle; anyone else every heard of this?

I've heard you can't put a square peg in a round hole.

Does that help?
 

Bestaluckcy

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Thanks for this, very helpful. A question about watering; it says to do so every 7-10 days, I'm assuming you wouldn't do this in the winter?

Also I've been reading that is is better for the roots to dig a square hole rather than a circle; anyone else every heard of this?

My understanding is when planting in the fall, watering is very important, because the air tends to be drier. I am under the understanding that it is important to water until the ground freezes. Even after the leaves fall and the trees go dormant in late fall. I have never watered trees through the winter, and just let mother nature take over the next spring.

Deciduous trees (the kind with leaves) usually are dormant in winter and have less winter problems. The evergreens can have problems some winters with lack of moisture. So for this reason I would not plant an evergreen very late in the fall and would wait until spring if given the choice. Under certain winter conditions water for evergreens may be an aide. This is my opinion based on my experience. Professionals would probably differ.

Nothing concerning shapes of holes. My only opinion on holes is it is better to plant slightly shallow vs. too deep. I usually plant with a gravel shovel. I lay the handle across the hole after it is dug and plant the tree at that depth. Most trees grow well here in Iowa. Rabbits, deer, lawn mowers and weed eaters, and girdled roots are usually what kills young trees.
 

StClone

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Wisconsin
I think the one I'm talking about is a little different than a Norway Maple (basing this off of a quick google search so I could be wrong). I was thinking along the lines of one of these:
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/AutumnBlaze.htm
http://www.fast-growing-trees.com/OctoberGlory.htm

Good info though. I feel better about planting in the fall

Those are easy trees to grow. The "Autumn Blaze" (Red Maple X Silver Maple) is a cross of trees native to the Midwest (the Red Maple is found all over Minnesota and Wisconsin but not Iowa). I have two in my yard and have had great luck, BUT many people have a problem with rapid growth and above horizontal branching resulting in trunk splitting. Part of this may be do to high nitrogen in grass fertilizer resulting in overly rapid growth.

Outside of that this cross is a great yard tree. Oh, and when mature many do produce winged seeds, and many little maples, that may be a pain.

About watering, I was considering that central Iowa winters may now result in warm dry conditions leaving the soil unfrozen. But, I'd say you can water into Nov, and forget about the watering until next spring.
 
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