It’s not “open to the target”. Your body is “squared” to the right of the target (for a right hander) and the club face is square with your shoulders, or neutral.This is what I was always taught growing up too from my Dad.
But the science now says this is wrong. If you point your club face where you want the ball to end up (the target), and swing in to out, the ball will start at the target and curve left of the target.
The club face needs to be closed to the PATH, but open to the target.
I may not understand his question but I know a damn good solution! Beer...always beer.This also works
I'm sure Butch Harmon is wrong tooOkay. You trust what Jack thinks is happening in the swing... and I'll trust decades of science and studies on what is happening in the golf swing.
If you're getting good results doing what you're doing... good for you. But I'll bet anything if your ball is starting to the right of the target that your clubface is open to the target line at impact.
Low draw; Stance slightly open due to the ball being further back for lower ball flight and delayed hip turn and/or closed face creates the draw.What confuses me with the pros is that a lot of times when they are hitting draws, their feet still appear open to be open to the target line, not closed to it.
Which I guess is still possible.... to swing inside to out with your feet still open or square to the target. I just rarely see the pros lined up really closed to the target EVER.
In Jack's day they thought the club path determined the starting line of the ball though, they know now that it's almost entirely determined by club face angle. Thanks to launch monitors, high speed cameras, and all that.I'm sure Butch Harmon is wrong too
How to make the ball curve
Don't make hitting a draw or a fade complicated. Butch Harmon shows you how.www.golfdigest.com
If your swing path is say 4° to the right of the actual target line and your club is closed 2° in relation to the actual swing path (not the target line) of the club, you should in theory hit a draw. I believe this and what you say above are very similar.This is why I started this thread.
Open clubface at impact to me is so counterintuitive to producing a draw, but supposedly that is correct. Studies have shown that the ball will start out in the direction the club face is pointing at impact... no matter what your club path is on. So an in to out swing with a club face pointed at the target will start out at the target and draw left of the target.
As long as your swing path is more to the right than your clubface is pointing, the ball will draw. So you want a club face pointing slightly to the right, but your path going even more to the right than your clubface, and that will produce a ball that starts to the right and comes back.
I think it takes some dialing in with your individual swing to figure out how you need to set up, and how open or closed the club face should be. When I first started trying Jack's method to draw it, I had a natural fade (most of the time, to an unhelpful degree).In Jack's day they thought the club path determined the starting line of the ball though, they know now that it's almost entirely determined by club face angle. Thanks to launch monitors, high speed cameras, and all that.
If you wanted to hit a fade that landed on target straight in front of you, and you set your club face on that target line and your body to the left you'd hit a push fade that would land to the right of your target.
I think it takes some dialing in with your individual swing to figure out how you need to set up, and how open or closed the club face should be. When I first started trying Jack's method to draw it, I had a natural fade (most of the time, to an unhelpful degree).
My immediate result of trying to set up this way was a shot that came off dead straight, maybe 10 degrees right of where I wanted it to go. Through practice, I've got it mostly going straight with a slight draw, though if I overcook it or set up wrong, it turns into a snap hook.
Anyway, I guess Jack's method isn't the most technically sound, but it's definitely the simplest and least fiddly way to draw or fade the ball for an average golfer (IMO).
Hmmm, but it doesJack’s method will no doubt draw the ball. It just won’t start right of the target and come back to the target.
feel vs real, you were able to adjust the club face to get the desired result. Jacks method works to shape the ball, just not exactly how he says it does.Hmmm, but it does
I do that as well, but mainly to counteract my natural tendency to sliceI play the draw by moving my left hand over the top of the grip a little bit (right-handed player). I hit the fade Jon Rahm/DJ style. My normal ball flight is pretty straight.
Eh, it matters as far as if someone were to only try what Jack says and not figure out their own club face they'd never hit the target. I guarantee you that when Jack actually hit the ball to hit a fade at a target the club face wasn't pointed at the target at impact while swinging left, it would have to be facing somewhere between the target line and the swing path line. Or the other option is he wasn't actually swinging that far left.
Alignment and excecution take practice.Simple question: How do you hit a draw that starts to the right of the target and curves back towards the target?
In order to do that, you have to have an open clubface to the target at impact, and your swing path has to be on a path even more "in to out" (to the right) than your clubface is pointing..... correct?
I always have swung in to out, but had my clubface pointed to the target. That will produce a draw, however, the ball will start out towards the target and draw away from the target, which you don't want.
I just have difficulty swinging with an open clubface when trying to draw it. Seems so wrong.