I saw some old threads about this but had a question for anyone that might know. To fill the joints in the garage floor, can you use silicone caulking? Is there any reason that would cause an issue?
Garage floor epoxy
- Thread starter BirdOfWar
- Start date
The epoxy might not stick to it. I think you'd be better off using one of the specific concrete fillers. Or chip it out a bit and mix up some quick curing cement and put it into a tuck pointing bag. Similar to cake decorating bags and just pipe the stuff into the crack then smooth it out on top with a trowel. I would think, even if it's paintable, the silicone is going to be flexible, you really don't want that under an epoxy finish.
Cyclonepride
Thought Police
Related question- my garage floor gets a lot of condensation in the summer months. I thought about doing epoxy, but not sure if it will stick?
Someone else I know that has already finished their garage floor thought they used silicone and haven't had any issues. The epoxy and the silicone are both water based, but I have no idea if that helps/hurts/doesn't matter.
I'm a little concerned about it not sticking long term like Clonefan94 mentioned, but I guess we'll see. After reading all the old threads I'm really nervous now. The only person that sounds like they haven't had issues is dmclone.
I'm a little concerned about it not sticking long term like Clonefan94 mentioned, but I guess we'll see. After reading all the old threads I'm really nervous now. The only person that sounds like they haven't had issues is dmclone.
- Commercially we do the joints after the floor is set - I would recommend - NP1 or SL1 by BASF - After you do the epoxy - It is grey and flexible
SL1 is pricey - but it is self leveling
Try Stetson in DSM
I painted the epoxy, let it dry and cure and then filled the joints with silicone. Have had no issues with that part. The epoxy started coming up pretty much right away. I think the first time it rained and I pulled in the garage with wet tires and let it sit overnight. For some reason when it dries out then my tires picked chips within a month. And I let it it cure for 7 days is warm dry temps before I put a vehicle on it.
I will say this though. I didn't prep the floor with the acid etching stuff because my concrete was 2 yrs old when I did it and I didn't have any oil in the concrete so I didn't think I needed it. Neighbor across the street did his this summer and did the acid treatment and it has been 3 months since he did it and it still looks like he did it yesterday. So I am thinking had I done that I would have been fine. Might try it if the weather cooperates this Fall yet.
I will say this though. I didn't prep the floor with the acid etching stuff because my concrete was 2 yrs old when I did it and I didn't have any oil in the concrete so I didn't think I needed it. Neighbor across the street did his this summer and did the acid treatment and it has been 3 months since he did it and it still looks like he did it yesterday. So I am thinking had I done that I would have been fine. Might try it if the weather cooperates this Fall yet.
I'm still accepting volunteers for tomorrow's potential epoxy debacle, so let me know if you are interested.
Yeah, the acid etching is to give the concrete some tooth for the epoxy to stick to. Weather it's new or old, do the etching. In a garage, they usually put that ultra smooth finish on the concrete and the epoxy has very little to grab to.
I think they key like others have said is to make sure that the floor is cleaned well with the acid stuff that's included and then make sure it's dry. I think start working on one garage stall at a time and mark it out in 8 sections. I think put the flakes in 8 different ziploc bags so that I'm spreading out an even amount. Like I said in the other post, make sure it looks good while it's still wet otherwise you are screwed. I tried touching up a small section after it was dry and it makes it look worse.
These pictures were after 4 years.
I've started working more in the garage lately and I do see one area that's about the size of a quarter that is coming up. The funny thing is that it's in the stall where there is no car so I don't know what's making this happen.
These pictures were after 4 years.
I've started working more in the garage lately and I do see one area that's about the size of a quarter that is coming up. The funny thing is that it's in the stall where there is no car so I don't know what's making this happen.
I think they key like others have said is to make sure that the floor is cleaned well with the acid stuff that's included and then make sure it's dry. I think start working on one garage stall at a time and mark it out in 8 sections. I think put the flakes in 8 different ziploc bags so that I'm spreading out an even amount. Like I said in the other post, make sure it looks good while it's still wet otherwise you are screwed. I tried touching up a small section after it was dry and it makes it look worse.
These pictures were after 4 years.
I've started working more in the garage lately and I do see one area that's about the size of a quarter that is coming up. The funny thing is that it's in the stall where there is no car so I don't know what's making this happen.
Good stuff DMClone. So--did you just use the epoxy to fill the joints?
I don't remember exactly what I used to fill the joints. It was some self leveling stuff that I left in place place for a few days and then just applied the epoxy right over top of it.
I also failed to mention that when I section it out in squares I use the painters tape as an edge. Depending how anal you are you may also want to use painter tape next to the drywall. The first house I used gray epoxy and then time I used tan. I don't really have a preference after using both.
I actually took applied epoxy under where the garage door sits. You can see it in this picture.
I actually took applied epoxy under where the garage door sits. You can see it in this picture.
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