I like Milorganite but it is super expensive now that it got super popular, when you compare the nitrogen content to synthetic fertilizers. Keep in mind that the typical analysis on milorganite is like 6-4-0. That means you're lawn can eventually build up too much phosphorus over the course of a couple seasons. There are other issues with excess phosphorus getting into our waterways. If you've been using it more than two seasons, I'd recommend a soil test to check levels. Some county extension offices will do a simple soil test for very little money or sometimes free.
Fertilizing my lawn for initial spring application
- Thread starter spierceisu
- Start date
I like Milorganite but it is super expensive now that it got super popular, when you compare the nitrogen content to synthetic fertilizers. Keep in mind that the typical analysis on milorganite is like 6-4-0. That means you're lawn can eventually build up too much phosphorus over the course of a couple seasons. There are other issues with excess phosphorus getting into our waterways. If you've been using it more than two seasons, I'd recommend a soil test to check levels. Some county extension offices will do a simple soil test for very little money or sometimes free.
Any brand of pre-emergent is fine for the most part including store brands. Look for prodiamine or dithiopyr as the active ingredient. Both work well. There are a couple of other relatively common pre-emergents but stick with prodiamine or dithiopry. Almost all pre-emergent sold at big box stores has nitrogen fertilizer in them. That's not necessarily a bad thing, but putting out that nitrogen too early is a waste.
With the warmer temps in Omaha this weekend looks to be right. 40% chance of rain on Sunday and 70% for Monday
Is middle of March a good time to be overseeding? Only 2nd spring in our house. Backyard is thin so planning on overseeding.
I'd stick with this soil temp map on soil temps
https://mesonet.agron.iastate.edu/current/index.phtml/soil_temperature/day1
Another great tool for when to apply product to your yard. Courtesy of the Michigan State Turf-grass Program.
http://www.gddtracker.net/?model=7&offset=0
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/timing_crabgrass_pre_emergence_applications
http://www.gddtracker.net/?model=7&offset=0
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/timing_crabgrass_pre_emergence_applications
5-day average soil temp is just 44 degrees in Omaha. Still early. Wait until it's into the 50's
Can you wait until Sept. 1st to seed? Do you have irrigation? If you have at least 50% grass, I'd take great care of it through the summer, including fertilizer, pre-emergent etc. and wait until September 1st to seed.
I'd be more worried about weeds in the spring than establishing turf through over seeding. Save that for August thru October when you've got weeds concurred and the summer heat is over.
Unless you have sprinklers or like to dump a lot of water onto your turf. Then you can start seeding 6-8 weeks after you put down the pre emergent
I believe this source is soil temps at a depth of 4 inches. Crabgrass and other weeds typically germinate in the top inch or so of soil, so although this is a useful tool, I don't believe it's optimized for turf grass management.
I'll be applying a generous amount of Turf Builder to my lawn on Saturday.
Just an FYI, mills fleet farm has it for $10 a bag in case you would like to return it and save some money. I am not sure if there is one in Cedar Rapids though.
I apply my crabgrass pre-emergent when forsythia bushes are in bloom.
- Jun 20, 2006
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Looks like soil temps in the 50s are nearing. Im following this site: https://mesonet.agron.iastate.edu/current/index.phtml/soil_temperature/day1
material is on hand, ready to apply. Thank you all for your help and guidance.
I'm seeding now. If it dies in the frost I'll seed some more. Seed is relatively cheap for small areas. I had a new driveway poured in December, and the grass was ruined to make room for concrete forms. Crabgrass prevent and seeding don't mix.
