Thanks, I'll sit on it until next Wednesday. I'm currently dealing on a couple vehicles. My main downside is the model I'm looking for is one that is hard to find and dealers don't like to budge much on price. (stupid Toyota's for being so dang reliable).
Car Buying Process
- Thread starter CloneFan4
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Thanks, I'll sit on it until next Wednesday. I'm currently dealing on a couple vehicles. My main downside is the model I'm looking for is one that is hard to find and dealers don't like to budge much on price. (stupid Toyota's for being so dang reliable).
Don’t wait until the last day, start a day or two early. Takes a day sometimes to get paperwork and loan approval if busy, market not be as good.
Don’t know if this has been mentioned, but flirt with the sales person. If you are good at it, price will drop.
First choice would definitely be matte black or grey. Since those are most likely out of the equation I'd go with black!
I'll go even further to say my heart is set on a dodge challenger. But as others have said I really can't be set and have to look at all options
I'm the opposite; I know exactly what I want before I go into the dealer. Who doesn't?
Do people go into a sushi joint, and then end up wanting to order tacos?
I'm the opposite; I know exactly what I want before I go into the dealer. Who doesn't?
Do people go into a sushi joint, and then end up wanting to order tacos?
Don’t judge my eating habits.
A few points regarding financing...
1. Assuming you get paid weekly, bi-weekly or semi-monthly, make your payment the same way. The more frequently you make your payment, the more quickly your principal reduces.
2. Even if you get a dirt cheap rate, set up an auto pay from your account and make $15-$25 (or what ever you can afford) extra per payment. The extra should all go to principal, it's out of sight out of mind for you, and you'll be surprised how quickly you can shave 6+ months off the back side of the loan, plus it builds in some cushion if you hit a rough spot for some reason. Do the same thing with your student loans.
3. If you get sent something about skipping a payment around the holidays, rip it up and throw it away unless you absolutely need the funds. Your car is still depreciating even if you're not making the payment.
4. If for any reason you hit a rough patch and are having trouble with your payment, COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR LENDER! They'll work with you if you have a good payment history, and anything you can do to protect your credit is crucial for future transactions.
Good luck.
1. Assuming you get paid weekly, bi-weekly or semi-monthly, make your payment the same way. The more frequently you make your payment, the more quickly your principal reduces.
2. Even if you get a dirt cheap rate, set up an auto pay from your account and make $15-$25 (or what ever you can afford) extra per payment. The extra should all go to principal, it's out of sight out of mind for you, and you'll be surprised how quickly you can shave 6+ months off the back side of the loan, plus it builds in some cushion if you hit a rough spot for some reason. Do the same thing with your student loans.
3. If you get sent something about skipping a payment around the holidays, rip it up and throw it away unless you absolutely need the funds. Your car is still depreciating even if you're not making the payment.
4. If for any reason you hit a rough patch and are having trouble with your payment, COMMUNICATE WITH YOUR LENDER! They'll work with you if you have a good payment history, and anything you can do to protect your credit is crucial for future transactions.
Good luck.
The sales manager or GM won’t necessarily get you a better deal. Using a salesperson who will remember you and when the manager says to blow a couple vehicles out, actually gets you a cheaper vehicle.
Sorry I didn't read all the pages, but If your credit was locked due to the Experian Fiasco, you'll need to plan ahead and unlock your credit. Same goes for your dad if he plans to co-sign.
One of the other considerations of down payment vs loan is if you try to sell it before you've paid it off, you may be upside down, making it harder to sell at that time.
Other than that, as mentioned, go over the numbers a bunch of times on your own, figuring your cost of ownership and have those numbers in mind. I had been working with a sales guy for a bout a month going over what they had and what deals they were running. Looked at quite a few dealers and cars. Then took one of their sales, extended the miles (lease) and dropped their price and told them if they could do it, i'd sign. They agreed and i signed. I have a pretty good residual as well, so if I want to buy at the end of 3 years, it will be affordable. Depending on your driving habits a lease may be a good idea for you, but again...put all numbers in and ask a ton of questions on fees, etc. I just got mine thru Honda and they seem to have a better lease package than most of the other brands. It's much cheaper to pay for miles up front than pay for the overage so again...do the numbers.
Good luck!
One of the other considerations of down payment vs loan is if you try to sell it before you've paid it off, you may be upside down, making it harder to sell at that time.
Other than that, as mentioned, go over the numbers a bunch of times on your own, figuring your cost of ownership and have those numbers in mind. I had been working with a sales guy for a bout a month going over what they had and what deals they were running. Looked at quite a few dealers and cars. Then took one of their sales, extended the miles (lease) and dropped their price and told them if they could do it, i'd sign. They agreed and i signed. I have a pretty good residual as well, so if I want to buy at the end of 3 years, it will be affordable. Depending on your driving habits a lease may be a good idea for you, but again...put all numbers in and ask a ton of questions on fees, etc. I just got mine thru Honda and they seem to have a better lease package than most of the other brands. It's much cheaper to pay for miles up front than pay for the overage so again...do the numbers.
Good luck!
Oh, definitely not, I got a pre approval from the bank and have already been discussing the vehicles with a sales person. Just more meant waiting a week and going in next Wednesday with my "I'll sign tonight number".
Looking at a couple cars. Would you rather have a 2014 with 72k miles or a 2011 with 38k? Same make/model, same price.
CycloneErik
Well-Known Member
Is it certified? Will the dealer stick a warranty on either?
It's not much but a 12/12,000 bumper to bumper is a nice to have on a used vehicle. A powertrain warranty on top is also a nice bonus.
Note...I mean if you're buying a Ford from a Ford dealer or chevy from a chevy dealer.
Need to know the car. Was the 2011 or 2014 a redesign? Some companies really struggle with 1st year models.
The last 2 we bought were certified preowned vehicles. Acura MDX & VW Passat and have been very happy with each. Both were bought over the internet, meaning we took care of details before seeing the vehicle in person. Did our research and knew exactly what we wanted, searched the internet to locate them and narrowed down to what we felt was the best mileage and price combos. Called those dealers and negotiated their best deal. Decided which one we wanted and completed the deal up to the signature point. Flew Saturday morning 1 way to Baltimore, dealer picked me up at the airport with the vehicle and I drove it back to the lot. They filled it up, I signed the papers and drove it back to Iowa. Home by noon on Sunday. A little risk on my part if the vehicle was misrepresented by the dealer, but figured an Acura dealer selling a certified Acura would be safe. I could have backed out and few home if needed. Seems like a big hassle right? The $5k below any dealer in the midwest, and dealer paid me cash for the cost of my plane ticket made it worthwhile. Drove it 9 years without any issues. Now in year 7 on the VW bought with the same process.
What are you using them for? What engine is in them? If the 14 has a 6 and the 11 a 4, they are about the same mileage.
Experience I had when I was a manager, extremely low mileage vehicles getting to that age, returned to the shop more often than the high mileage ones.
That's a great story. Had a friend who bought an Audi diesel the same way. He's also getting a bunch of money out of the diesel settlement so he's really coming out ahead. I would not be opposed to doing something like that. Car fax helps weed out a lot of problems. I probably would have also found an independent mechanic to look over before agreeing too.
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Pending the age, I would go south to purchase vehicles and definitely not north if over a few years. No road salt in okie but MN uses it heavily.
