What’d the saw cost itself? Where’d you get it?
I agree with @mramseyISU I need to stay out of this thread so I stop spending money. You guys are killing me.
Woodworkers Thread
- Thread starter AgronAlum
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I agree with @mramseyISU I need to stay out of this thread so I stop spending money. You guys are killing me.
Not sure what the Makita goes for, but I bought the DeWalt track saw and the Powertec track system. The saw was $425 and the track was $110, so about $535 all-in. I might have had a 10% moving coupon, but $500-$600 is in the range of what I would expect for a new track saw and track.
Just like @AgronAlum , I love mine and I'm so glad to have it. I had the Kreg rip cut jig and that thing just frustrated the hell out of me. For whatever reason, I just could not get straight cuts with that thing, so it was basically useless for me. The DeWalt is straight and true every time. It takes me under a minute to set it up and cut. The dust collection works well, as well. I honestly don't have any complaints about the thing so far. I built some shop cabinets over the winter and the track saw was a God-send for ripping down sheet goods.
The bare tool with no batteries is $350. I ended up gettting it on Amazon through a place called Max Tool because nobody had the bare saw locally, only the kit with 55” of track. The track was from Amazon as well and was $110 for 110”.
Yes, you just need to make sure you get enough track. I got two 55" sections that connect. So, I have 110" of track. Easily cuts a 8 ft sheet lengthwise.
I think that all depends on how wide the board you're trying to rip is before you start.
I would also add that unless you have an outfeed table, the track saw is by far the safer option for sheet goods. Even with a decent outfeed table, I can't imagine trying to manhandle an 4x8 sheet of 3/4" material by myself through the table saw. The track saw makes this task quick and safe.
To me breaking down sheet goods is the main reason you'd want a track saw.
Tonight’s project was replicating some trim 100% on the router table outside of cutting the stock to width with the track saw. It wasn’t available in the color needed, so I decided to make it
Used a flush trim bit to plane the stock down from 3/4 to 5/8, a 22.5 degree bit and a rabbiting bit.
Used a flush trim bit to plane the stock down from 3/4 to 5/8, a 22.5 degree bit and a rabbiting bit.
Did it for years. Certainly harder to get a nice cut but it's all about where you put the pressure when feeding.
looking at the grains of the wood.... is this an example of old growth lumber vs new? or am i high
My fiance caught me reading through some woodworking threads and saw a post on a sawstop. Asked me about it and I explained how it works then showed her videos. She's now a huge fan and wants me to buy one. I wish it was always this easy!!
My wife told me that once we get our student loans paid off I can get a sawstop.
In all seriousness, you won't regret buying it - it's a long term investment in a quality and safe piece of equipment.
You know, the more and more I think about projects ahead of me in the new house, I was starting to lean more towards a cabinet saw vs jobsite. So that alone would be a step up in price. Then the cost of the sawstop tech isn't that much further of a jump. As she mentioned to me, the cost of the saw is cheaper than just one trip to the ER so it's kind of cheap insurance policy really.
This was my logic as well. A good quality cabinet saw is going to run $2500 or so. Less than $1000 more to go up to a Sawstop. I had the thought “if I ever cut my finger off, I’m gonna be pissed I didn’t just spend the money.”
You have to use proprietary blades though don’t you? So no Forrest, Amana, Freud, etc. I just wonder what kind of selection they have.
On a Sawstop? I don’t believe so. It comes with a nice combo blade. But I’m sure it will take any 10” blade. I currently use the blade that came with it and I bought a Frued Dado stack for around $100.
I’ve also learned there’s a huge misconception around the emergency brake system. I’ve had so many people say “doesn’t it ruin the saw if you set it off?” Which is not the case. You have to replace the brake ($100) and either sharpen your blade or at worst, get a new blade.
So worst case we’re talking a couple hundred dollars depending on how nice your blade was. Not something I’m gonna do every weekend, but also doesn’t ruin the saw.
