Woodworkers Thread

do4CY

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Can some of you woodworking vets give me the top 5 things I need to know about router bits and where to get them? Starting playing with my new router and already busted one off in my material. Probably operator error I’m sure.
Direction of cut is important.

Use bits with a 1/2" shank if possible, assuming your router is big enough.

The bigger the bit cutting surface the slower the speed should be.

On bits you will use a lot, spend the money on good quality.

It is often times better to make more passes than try and get everything with one pass, a lot depends on the wood and how much you are trying to take
 

CyJeans

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Can some of you woodworking vets give me the top 5 things I need to know about router bits and where to get them? Starting playing with my new router and already busted one off in my material. Probably operator error I’m sure.
1. The majority of bits available at box stores are either made at the same supplier and rebranded differently or are pretty much the same thing in terms of quality level. The biggest difference is going to be in terms of quality of material and how long they will stay sharp. There is a correlation of cost vs quality but the jump from top to bottom isn't as big as you think. If you want to invest in quality, spend the extra money on spiral style bits vs flute. That is where you will see the biggest jump in quality.
2. Flute style bits are fine, they will do the job you are asking. There will be more burning and more tear out and you will have more work covering those up. Ways you can avoid this is by taking smaller passes or using painters tape on edges you are cutting. If you want to avoid some of the extra work get upcut, downcut, or compression bits. J Katz-Moses has a good youtube video on the difference. Brands to look at for that are Whiteside and Amana. There are others but those are the two I am more familiar with.
3. Don't use a 1/4" shank bit in a router table if you can avoid it, especially not a bit with a smaller diameter cutter. There is more side force as you are pushing the work piece into the bit vs bringing the bit to the work piece. Unless you have a trim router or a cnc, 1/2" shank is probably where you will be best off.
4. Just like any cutter, the best thing you can do is take care of it. Don't toss it around so it gets chipped and clean it semi regularly (CMT makes great blade and bit cleaner). I am terrible at both of those things.


Not as long a term vet as some on here but I do work in the industry
 
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CycloneBob

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Can some of you woodworking vets give me the top 5 things I need to know about router bits and where to get them? Starting playing with my new router and already busted one off in my material. Probably operator error I’m sure.
In addition to Amana and Whiteside as previously suggested, I like Freud. Same on saw blades.
 
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Yaz

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All great info above. Also, make sure you are not setting the router bit down on the collet. Leave some space so it doesnt ride on it.
 
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mramseyISU

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So I was talking with one of the other dads that help coach our 8th grade boys in baseball the other night about those camwood training bats. They work pretty well, we had a couple for out boys to use when practicing at the high school the other night. The problem with them is they’re $100 wood bat. Me and my big mouth said I could make one way cheaper. Turns out $20 and 6 hours later I can. D0772512-1622-43CB-823D-988CA26DF482.jpeg
 

JM4CY

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So I was talking with one of the other dads that help coach our 8th grade boys in baseball the other night about those camwood training bats. They work pretty well, we had a couple for out boys to use when practicing at the high school the other night. The problem with them is they’re $100 wood bat. Me and my big mouth said I could make one way cheaper. Turns out $20 and 6 hours later I can. View attachment 82272
well that’s cool
 

BWRhasnoAC

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Dez Moy Nez
So I was talking with one of the other dads that help coach our 8th grade boys in baseball the other night about those camwood training bats. They work pretty well, we had a couple for out boys to use when practicing at the high school the other night. The problem with them is they’re $100 wood bat. Me and my big mouth said I could make one way cheaper. Turns out $20 and 6 hours later I can. View attachment 82272
With practice bet you could cut that time in half.
 

throwittoblythe

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Can some of you woodworking vets give me the top 5 things I need to know about router bits and where to get them? Starting playing with my new router and already busted one off in my material. Probably operator error I’m sure.
Definitely make sure you’re pushing against the direction of the router spin. Like others, I learned that the hard way.

Also, if you’re doing any sort of profiling or deep cutting, it takes several small passes not one deep pass. I made my own chair rail using the router once and learned this lesson.
 

mramseyISU

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With practice bet you could cut that time in half.
I actually made two of them. The second one was closer to 4 hours. If I had a steady rest to stabilize it I could probably get it closer to a couple hours I bet. When you start the skinny part of the handle it chatters a lot.
 

JM4CY

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AgronAlum

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Love it. Talk to me about those clamps you used and how I would create or make some of my own and how expensive are they
They’re Rockler clamps and black pipe from Home Depot. They go on sale at Rockler quite often and if you sign up for their emails you get free shipping on anything over 35 bucks. I got mine for 15 bucks a piece on sale. They have wider feet than most pipe clamps which I like a lot and they have a lip on them for hanging them up.

The black pipe from Home Depot is 10 ft and threaded at each end so I just bought ten sticks and cut them in half at home. They work great.
 
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wintersmd

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Here are a few projects I was able to finish up this past few weeks. One is a custom Vanity and counter top for a friend. Vanity is made from Maple with a Warm Cherry finish. The top is epoxy with White, Black and Metal colors.

The flag stands are for an academy classmate of mine. The flag stands are made from Ash with Walnut Inlay for the rank and text.

The cabinet is for my wife to store her scrapbook crap in.



1616371424606.png
1616371497222.png 1616371553262.png
 

Angie

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Finally got a couple projects done. Thanks to @Angie and @Mr Janny for hiring me to do couple projects.

Here is the laundry table. It’s a little high off the washer and dryer because of the water hookups but still a reasonable height.

View attachment 83052
View attachment 83054
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View attachment 83056
You seriously are awesome. I've already been working on putting photos on the photo ledge, and am honestly pissed at myself that I did all of the laundry yesterday. Both just look so perfect with our woodwork - I cannot thank @AgronAlum enough! If you're looking for a handyman - he's it! I can't wait to talk Janny into finally getting the screendoor I want and having Agron install it for us!
 

AgronAlum

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Does anyone know anything about the Wen track saws? It looks like I could be all in with 100 inch track and clamps for about 200 bucks. I’ve been happy with the couple Wen tools I have to far.

Any other recommendations for a budget track saw?
 

CycloneBob

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I have the Kreg, the only brand I've used, so my comments accordingly - works great for me; I'd buy again. I purchased at the Woodsmith Store. Others there were higher priced.
 
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JP4CY

Plaque + alternates = down in the ladies room
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Does anyone know anything about the Wen track saws? It looks like I could be all in with 100 inch track and clamps for about 200 bucks. I’ve been happy with the couple Wen tools I have to far.

Any other recommendations for a budget track saw?
I personally own a Dewalt which is almost identical to Makita.
If you're going to use it occasionally it may suit you. I use mine enough plus I'm in the Dewalt line to validate it.
With Dewalt, Makita, Festool, you can also buy router clamp attachments to use the track.

If you haven't been to Acme, you should go check out the feeling of them too.
 

throwittoblythe

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Does anyone know anything about the Wen track saws? It looks like I could be all in with 100 inch track and clamps for about 200 bucks. I’ve been happy with the couple Wen tools I have to far.

Any other recommendations for a budget track saw?
I have DeWalt, as well, like @JP4CY so can't comment on the Wen. I don't know if Wen's is cordless, but that is a really nice feature of the DeWalt. The system works great and I have no complaints, thus far. It's great for breaking down sheet goods, but can also be used to square up edges on larger stock without having to go to the table saw.

I've always been very frustrated trying to get straight cuts when breaking down sheets, so this thing is a God send.
 

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