Flooring Question

BillBrasky4Cy

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We are having LVP installed and I'm removing the old flooring to save some money. Most of the flooring being removed is wood but the bathroom and a small area by our back door are currently tile. I removed the tile from the backdoor area and I'm using my oscillating tool to scrape off the mortar. My question is how clean does the surface have to be for the LVP installation? Obviously you don't want any thick pieces left but there are some very thin spots that just won't come up. When I say thin it's basically smooth to the floor. Any insight would be appreciated!
 
We are having LVP installed and I'm removing the old flooring to save some money. Most of the flooring being removed is wood but the bathroom and a small area by our back door are currently tile. I removed the tile from the backdoor area and I'm using my oscillating tool to scrape off the mortar. My question is how clean does the surface have to be for the LVP installation? Obviously you don't want any thick pieces left but there are some very thin spots that just won't come up. When I say thin it's basically smooth to the floor. Any insight would be appreciated!
You’re fine if you’ve done all that. You shouldn’t notice anything at that point
 
You’re fine if you’ve done all that. You shouldn’t notice anything at that point

That's what I figured but was more so worried that flooring crew is going to show up and want to sand it down and expect me to pay for it.
 
Also depends on what kind / how thick the underlayment is.

I've used super thin stuff where small imperfections were noticeable and caused problems. And I've used thicker stuff (the folding kind that's like cardboard, the .25"-ish foam) which covers a multitude of sins but then the floor has more give to it.

Good luck, and make them cut the pieces to size outside! So you don't have a billion microbits of vinyl floating around the house.
 
I did not do any of my LVP myself, but I do think you have to be careful that it is smooth. Ours was fairly thin (~3/8"?) but I can feel a few little bumps here and there.

I don't know about you, but where they demo'd the tile floors in our house, they took out the tile, the grout, and the backing board, what ever you call that.

So the thickness of the existing floor was more than the new LVP is. They put down 3/8" or 1/2" plywood, then the LVP on top.

After the day of install they had forgotten the ply, and it was really noticeable. I had them take up the LVP, then ply, then LVP back down. Big difference.
 
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I gutted my son's kitchen, including removing the tile floor and taking out a wall. I removed the tile and the backer board underneath it, and I got down to the original linoleum floor.

I had to take a few hundred screws out of the floor, but it was very easy installing the LVP on top of the smooth linoleum surface.
 
LVP

Slick AF

Signed,

Guy who's fallen hard more than once

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I would recommend to insure you have a thick top layer - industrial grade if possible.
 
If you're trying to save money, just chip it all away. Any decent flooring contractor will make sure it's clean and will charge you to fix what you left.

If it's glue down LVP, you'll see the imperfections. If it's click together, imperfections could risk broken locks and the flooring will pop up.