DIY home improvement projects

[CYEATHAWK]

Tee into the main and run 1/2 inch lines to the fixtures. Get your PEX from a supply house if you can. The PEX sold at the big box stores is usually lower quality consumer stuff. If you have to go to a big box store, buy name brand especially on the fittings.

Yes. And not the plastic fittings. Also I have found it's better to run the entire house with 3/4 inch lines. The fittings do to pex what copper fittings don't do with copper line and that is restrict. You may have 1/2 line but the ID of those fittings isn't that. And too many bends to avoid fittings even on pex is not ideal.

Happy Thanksgiving

 

[Primetime26]

another plumbing question... i already have a moen trim kit for the shower. do I have to get a moen mix valve? menards has a Delta 4 port pex style. can I use that with the Moen handle and shower head? then just cap the port for the tub since its a stand up shower?

 

[CYEATHAWK]

another plumbing question... i already have a moen trim kit for the shower. do I have to get a moen mix valve? menards has a Delta 4 port pex style. can I use that with the Moen handle and shower head? then just cap the port for the tub since its a stand up shower?

I'm fairly certain that moen trim kits are not universal. Go ahead and get the moen valve. In my experience they are every bit as good or better than Delta.

 

[Pope]

Well, winter is officially here now and I'm looking for interior home improvement project ideas to work on while I'm stuck inside for the next 3 or 4 months.

Anyone have any cool ideas for projects? Please include pictures if you can!

 

[AgronAlum]

Well, winter is officially here now and I'm looking for interior home improvement project ideas to work on while I'm stuck inside for the next 3 or 4 months.

Anyone have any cool ideas for projects? Please include pictures if you can!

Any particular room or rooms you’re focusing on? Are you looking to repair/replace or add some stuff? A couple hundred bucks or a couple thousand bucks?

Built ins are really fun to build and can really transform a room while also getting rid of clutter lying around.

What’s the “shop” look like? A lot can be done with organization in the garage. One of the best things I’ve done is heat the garage. You can work on stuff all year and it’s a small project itself to get the heater installed.

Interested in making some furniture? Or making some furniture better?

Excuse the mess but I’ve been pretty happy with the bench storage and overhead shelving for the stuff that collects in my work area. I’ve got way too much **** packed in a 2 car for having 3 kids worth of crap laying around. Maybe some pics will trigger some ideas though.

 

[Pope]

Any particular room or rooms you’re focusing on? Are you looking to repair/replace or add some stuff? A couple hundred bucks or a couple thousand bucks?

Built ins are really fun to build and can really transform a room while also getting rid of clutter lying around.

What’s the “shop” look like? A lot can be done with organization in the garage. One of the best things I’ve done is heat the garage. You can work on stuff all year and it’s a small project itself to get the heater installed.

Interested in making some furniture? Or making some furniture better?

Excuse the mess but I’ve been pretty happy with the bench storage and overhead shelving for the stuff that collects in my work area. I’ve got way too much **** packed in a 2 car for having 3 kids worth of crap laying around. Maybe some pics will trigger some ideas though.

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Thanks for the suggestions!

We have a detached garage that is not heated. Over the years I've thought about adding heat, but it would require that I insulate the garage door, the walls, and the ceiling before I add some type of heater.

I'm guessing the cost would be several thousand dollars (?) to set it all up, plus whatever to run the heater, and I worry I wouldn't use it enough to justify this cost.

But you've triggered another idea. We have a small laundry room (with no ceiling) in our basement that is a cluttered eyesore when you walk into it. I'm thinking I could clear it all out, remodel all the shelving to add storage capacity, and add a nice ceiling.

It could probably be done for minimal cost if make the shelving myself, and it would it would be a huge improvement for storage and eye appeal. It would also be a great winter project!

 

[Agclone91]

Did a simple built in bench in our mudroom closet. My wife is insisting on it being painted - I prefer stained wood and have virtually no experience with finish painting wood. Picked up some Benjamin Moore Advance for durability. I'm not super happy with the first coat - way more brush marks than I would like. Anyone have experience with this product that could offer advice? The guy at Ace gave me a Wooster Gold Edge brush and after some reading I think it may be too stiff. Feel like I screwed up and should've just rented a sprayer. The 16 hour recoat time is killing me. Planning to go pick up a softer brush tomorrow and do a thorough sand to hopefully get back to a decent base.

Photo from pre-paint because I'm embarrassed of how it looks now.

 

[CHim]

Did a simple built in bench in our mudroom closet. My wife is insisting on it being painted - I prefer stained wood and have virtually no experience with finish painting wood. Picked up some Benjamin Moore Advance for durability. I'm not super happy with the first coat - way more brush marks than I would like. Anyone have experience with this product that could offer advice? The guy at Ace gave me a Wooster Gold Edge brush and after some reading I think it may be too stiff. Feel like I screwed up and should've just rented a sprayer. The 16 hour recoat time is killing me. Planning to go pick up a softer brush tomorrow and do a thorough sand to hopefully get back to a decent base.

Photo from pre-paint because I'm embarrassed of how it looks now.

I've had decent luck with a Purdy Dale Elite brush off the shelf at Menards. Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane is a pretty quality paint for trim products. I'm not familiar with the Benjamin Moore product but if it is for trim/cabinets it should do fine. I would also tell you not to rush sanding it down to bare wood after one coat, an additional coat or...7 will smooth it out. But in seriousness, a light sand(220 grit and wipe down) and recoat will clear a lot of brushmarks so don't go too hard on it. I have used wooster brushes and seen them do fine. The main benefit of paying for the big name brushes is less hairs left in the finish. Keep a tweezers handy to pick strays. Can add flotrol to the paint if needed but it generally isn't needed. Can also glob the paint on quickly with a 1/4" nap or foam roller and then tip it out with a good brush to even it out. Lots of options to get to a good product here. Don't judge the finished product by the in process look, stay with it and it should settle in.

Also from personal experience, no one cares. So get it to a level you don't mind seeing and you will be set for any visitors.

 

[AgronAlum]

Did a simple built in bench in our mudroom closet. My wife is insisting on it being painted - I prefer stained wood and have virtually no experience with finish painting wood. Picked up some Benjamin Moore Advance for durability. I'm not super happy with the first coat - way more brush marks than I would like. Anyone have experience with this product that could offer advice? The guy at Ace gave me a Wooster Gold Edge brush and after some reading I think it may be too stiff. Feel like I screwed up and should've just rented a sprayer. The 16 hour recoat time is killing me. Planning to go pick up a softer brush tomorrow and do a thorough sand to hopefully get back to a decent base.

Photo from pre-paint because I'm embarrassed of how it looks now.

Light sand between coats and finish with a decent low nap (1/4 or 3/16) mohair or microfiber mini roller if you can. Just make sure you run some painters tape around the dry roller to pull off loose fibers before using.

You’re gonna get brush marks no matter what brush you use. Some are better than others but they will still be there. Light sand and then roll or spray to minimize.

I did this dresser with BM Advance and it has held up very well for about 6 years now with a kid that went from 0-6 years old. I had good luck using it on some built ins I made for my parents as well.

Ive been leaning into BM paint over SW lately. I used their Scuff X paint on the last bigger job I had and it laid very well for the variety of surfaces it went on.

 

[Pope]

Did a simple built in bench in our mudroom closet. My wife is insisting on it being painted - I prefer stained wood and have virtually no experience with finish painting wood. Picked up some Benjamin Moore Advance for durability. I'm not super happy with the first coat - way more brush marks than I would like. Anyone have experience with this product that could offer advice? The guy at Ace gave me a Wooster Gold Edge brush and after some reading I think it may be too stiff. Feel like I screwed up and should've just rented a sprayer. The 16 hour recoat time is killing me. Planning to go pick up a softer brush tomorrow and do a thorough sand to hopefully get back to a decent base.

Photo from pre-paint because I'm embarrassed of how it looks now.

Nice work! Like you, I'm partial to staining but I'm sure it will end up looking great with a nice paint job too.

I went to Harbor Freight a while back and picked up a nice sprayer which has worked great. I've used it for painting interior doors and staining a privacy fence and cedar shutters with flower boxes.

 

[ripvdub]

Did a simple built in bench in our mudroom closet. My wife is insisting on it being painted - I prefer stained wood and have virtually no experience with finish painting wood. Picked up some Benjamin Moore Advance for durability. I'm not super happy with the first coat - way more brush marks than I would like. Anyone have experience with this product that could offer advice? The guy at Ace gave me a Wooster Gold Edge brush and after some reading I think it may be too stiff. Feel like I screwed up and should've just rented a sprayer. The 16 hour recoat time is killing me. Planning to go pick up a softer brush tomorrow and do a thorough sand to hopefully get back to a decent base.

Photo from pre-paint because I'm embarrassed of sprayer

You can buy a sprayer on Amazon for$25 for small projects. They can be sensitive to paint viscosity, but can give a great result. You can also sand the brush marks smooth and do over with a foam roller.

 

[mramseyISU]

Nice work! Like you, I'm partial to staining but I'm sure it will end up looking great with a nice paint job too.

I went to Harbor Freight a while back and picked up a nice sprayer which has worked great. I've used it for painting interior doors and staining a privacy fence and cedar shutters with flower boxes.

That paint sprayer they have works really good in my opinion. I've used mine a couple of times repainting my deck chairs I built as a Covid Project.

 

[AgronAlum]

Nice work! Like you, I'm partial to staining but I'm sure it will end up looking great with a nice paint job too.

I went to Harbor Freight a while back and picked up a nice sprayer which has worked great. I've used it for painting interior doors and staining a privacy fence and cedar shutters with flower boxes.

I’m almost exclusively to Harbor Freight now unless I’m adding to the Makita collection. I haven’t had an issue with anything I’ve bought there. They also have a lifetime warranty still on their hand tools. Their Icon stuff is really nice.

 

[mramseyISU]

I’m almost exclusively to Harbor Freight now unless I’m adding to the Makita collection. I haven’t had an issue with anything I’ve bought there. They also have a lifetime warranty still on their hand tools. Their Icon stuff is really nice.

It's kind of turned into what Sears was 25-30 years ago. They have plenty of junk there for sure but you can find some really nice tools as well. I've been upgrading the air lines and hoses in my garage and you can't find better fittings for the money anywhere else.

 

[Pope]

So I've got a sliding door issue that I'm gonna have to deal with. It involves a very old, but incredibly sturdy, wood Pella door. It has been an amazing door for us over the many years and the only maintenance I've had to do is replace the rollers and weatherstripping.

Unfortunately, the aluminum cladding on the exterior side of the stationary panel popped out near the bottom a few days ago and it's evident that moisture must have seeped down inside the bottom of the panel and warped the wood badly.

As the photo shows, I put duct tape along where the cladding popped out to prevent the recent snow from getting inside and to allow me to still open the slider door for now. You can see where the sliding door has scratched the paint on the cladding.



I had a company out to my house yesterday to see if it would be possible for them to repair the stationary panel. Of course they said no and that I'd need to replace the entire door. They quoted me $4,700 to replace this door with a mid-range Pella vinyl door.

My wife and I have retired and I'm not sure how much longer we're going to live in this house, so I'm not very thrilled about spending $4,700 on a new mid-range door or $6,000-$7,000 on a top-range door. I've taken on some pretty major renovation projects on this house, so I'm thinking about attempting to repair the panel myself.

I'm thinking I can take the stationary panel out, remove the aluminum cladding on the bottom of this panel, replace all the wood below the glass, reattach the cladding, carefully seal all the seams with high quality caulking, and repaint the panel. I figure the worst that can happen is it won't work and I'll have to replace the door anyway.

The worst part is I'll have to wait until spring to take this on because it's too freaking cold to open up a 6 foot hole in my house for a few days. If there are any folks who are experienced in this sort of thing, I welcome any advice you might have!

 

[JEFF420]

anyone else put towels across the bottom of your doors during very cold weather? am i 200 years old?

 

[mramseyISU]

anyone else put towels across the bottom of your doors during very cold weather? am i 200 years old?

Just depends on the door. If it leaks air but I use it a lot I get one of those fancy deals made specifically for that purpose but if it's a door that hardly gets used a towel works just fine.

 

[CYEATHAWK]

So I've got a sliding door issue that I'm gonna have to deal with. It involves a very old, but incredibly sturdy, wood Pella door. It has been an amazing door for us over the many years and the only maintenance I've had to do is replace the rollers and weatherstripping.

Unfortunately, the aluminum cladding on the exterior side of the stationary panel popped out near the bottom a few days ago and it's evident that moisture must have seeped down inside the bottom of the panel and warped the wood badly.

As the photo shows, I put duct tape along where the cladding popped out to prevent the recent snow from getting inside and to allow me to still open the slider door for now. You can see where the sliding door has scratched the paint on the cladding.

View attachment 166608

I had a company out to my house yesterday to see if it would be possible for them to repair the stationary panel. Of course they said no and that I'd need to replace the entire door. They quoted me $4,700 to replace this door with a mid-range Pella vinyl door.

My wife and I have retired and I'm not sure how much longer we're going to live in this house, so I'm not very thrilled about spending $4,700 on a new mid-range door or $6,000-$7,000 on a top-range door. I've taken on some pretty major renovation projects on this house, so I'm thinking about attempting to repair the panel myself.

I'm thinking I can take the stationary panel out, remove the aluminum cladding on the bottom of this panel, replace all the wood below the glass, reattach the cladding, carefully seal all the seams with high quality caulking, and repaint the panel. I figure the worst that can happen is it won't work and I'll have to replace the door anyway.

The worst part is I'll have to wait until spring to take this on because it's too freaking cold to open up a 6 foot hole in my house for a few days. If there are any folks who are experienced in this sort of thing, I welcome any advice you might have!

Is there any wood behind the cladding right now that is solid enough to hold a screw?

 

[Pope]

Is there any wood behind the cladding right now that is solid enough to hold a screw?

I won't know until I remove the cladding, but I'm guessing not because I've also noticed now that the wood on the inside of the bottom of the panel has bubbled out a bit. Makes me think the wood all across the bottom of the panel is in pretty bad shape.

 

[AgronAlum]

It's kind of turned into what Sears was 25-30 years ago. They have plenty of junk there for sure but you can find some really nice tools as well. I've been upgrading the air lines and hoses in my garage and you can't find better fittings for the money anywhere else.

Exactly right and I was a big fan of Sears back then too and most of my older tools are Craftsman. I actually like the fact that they have "junk" and have quality levels with different in house brands. I can go grab Pittsburg if it's lesser used and Icon if it's used a bunch for example.

I don't need to spend gobs of money on a specialty tool that might get used a couple times ever. That being said I have very rarely had any issues with anything I've bought no matter what brand.