Woodworkers Thread

[Cyclone Pfan]

I have a question I'm hoping someone here can answer.

I have a screened in deck that has 2x8" tounge-and-groove flooring.

The doorway to the outside happens to be on the side that has the end cut.

While the rest of the deck is in good order, the door opening is starting to show its age (wear and weather). The end cuts are starting to... fray?

I know planing and sanding are in my future, but is there a penetrating silicone of sorts that can help to seal it up ahead of applying deck stain?

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

I have a question I'm hoping someone here can answer.

I have a screened in deck that has 2x8" tounge-and-groove flooring.

The doorway to the outside happens to be on the side that has the end cut.

While the rest of the deck is in good order, the door opening is starting to show its age (wear and weather). The end cuts are starting to... fray?

I know planing and sanding are in my future, but is there a penetrating silicone of sorts that can help to seal it up ahead of applying deck stain? View attachment 152087

They make deck sealants and paints for this specifically. Go to a good paint store and tell them what you need and they will hook you up.

 

[AgronAlum]

I have a question I'm hoping someone here can answer.

I have a screened in deck that has 2x8" tounge-and-groove flooring.

The doorway to the outside happens to be on the side that has the end cut.

While the rest of the deck is in good order, the door opening is starting to show its age (wear and weather). The end cuts are starting to... fray?

I know planing and sanding are in my future, but is there a penetrating silicone of sorts that can help to seal it up ahead of applying deck stain? View attachment 152087

Without seeing it in person it's a little tough to tell but it looks like there is enough overhang over the lattice that you could trim off a half inch or so? It would even everything out and give you new end grain to seal over.

Or with a little more work you could cut those boards back and add top step that runs perpendicular to the deck boards. It may require some blocking between the rim joist and the next joist. None of which is terribly hard to accomplish.

Otherwise yeah, do what BWRhasno said.

 

[CycloneBob]

I used to use Formby's tung oil. It is labeled as tung oil but is not actually pure tung oil. It provided a very respectable finish when fresh but not so much when using up the balance of an already opened container. Currently using Minwax tung oil which seems to hold it's luster regardless of if it is the first application from the can or the last. There are probably better finishes out there but this suffices for me.

Thanks, I've used that product several times. What's nice about tung oil is the application process.

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

Without seeing it in person it's a little tough to tell but it looks like there is enough overhang over the lattice that you could trim off a half inch or so? It would even everything out and give you new end grain to seal over.

Or with a little more work you could cut those boards back and add top step that runs perpendicular to the deck boards. It may require some blocking between the rim joist and the next joist. None of which is terribly hard to accomplish.

Otherwise yeah, do what BWRhasno said.

I agree, cutting the end grain back a touch would be a good idea. Going to be difficult as the skill saw fence will likely dictate how close you can get to the house.

 

[JM4CY]

Any tips on deck stain or application tips? I’ve got boards that I’m trying to keep going that are close to hospice care and I don’t want to replace. The last couple years it looks good but it’s not sticking or working like it has in the past. I put a clear sealer on over the stain I got from sherwin Williams but it still didn’t hold great.

 

[AgronAlum]

I agree, cutting the end grain back a touch would be a good idea. Going to be difficult as the skill saw fence will likely dictate how close you can get to the house.

It looks like at least a couple inches from the posts to the end of the deck boards in that pic. Two inches would get him enough room to cut a half inch off with a skill saw.

Not sure what side of the deck the exit is on though. The deck boards should run parallel with the ledger but that wouldn't be the case if I'm reading the OP right and the other end of these boards are up against the house.

IDK if I'm the OP I'm probably cutting those back, adding some blocking and throwing on a top step. The boards seem to be centered well on the posts.

 

[AgronAlum]

Any tips on deck stain or application tips? I’ve got boards that I’m trying to keep going that are close to hospice care and I don’t want to replace. The last couple years it looks good but it’s not sticking or working like it has in the past. I put a clear sealer on over the stain I got from sherwin Williams but it still didn’t hold great.

Some top coats are compatible with others and some are not. Probs need to know at exactly what's on there now.

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

Some top coats are compatible with others and some are not. Probs need to know at exactly what's on there now.

Looks like whatever was on there is basically gone. To me those just look like green treat that have dried out.

 

[AgronAlum]

Looks like whatever was on there is basically gone.

Is there a pic I'm missing?

@JM4CY You got a pic of the deck or what you used on it? You may be able to get away with a regular solid top coat. The last ditch effort on a bad deck is applying something like this. The clear might be what's holding you back. They generally don't do well with another coat of anything on top.

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/exterior-paint-stain/exterior-wood-stains/deck-restoration-coatings/cabot-reg-deckcorrect-reg/140-0025200-007indiancorn-bonfire/p-7937932433969-c-19339.htm

The deck would still need to be power washed/sanded and prepped.

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

Is there a pic I'm missing?

@JM4CY You got a pic of the deck or what you used on it? You may be able to get away with a regular solid top coat. The last ditch effort on a bad deck is applying something like this. The clear might be what's holding you back. They generally don't do well with another coat of anything on top.

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/exterior-paint-stain/exterior-wood-stains/deck-restoration-coatings/cabot-reg-deckcorrect-reg/140-0025200-007indiancorn-bonfire/p-7937932433969-c-19339.htm

The deck would still need to be power washed/sanded and prepped.

I must be confusing that picture above with JP's question.

 

[JM4CY]

 

[AgronAlum]

View attachment 152118

That almost looks like you already used a deck correct type product on it. That stuff is good for filling and masking bad boards but it really is a last ditch effort type product that will start peeling after a year or two. The only time it should really ever be used is when there's a plan to replace the decking over the next couple years.

You may be up **** creek on this one without a ton of elbow grease removing the old stain and clear. Maybe check with Sherwin Williams to see if they have anything that will go over the clear you put on.

 

[cydnote]

That almost looks like you already used a deck correct type product on it. That stuff is good for filling and masking bad boards but it really is a last ditch effort type product that will start peeling after a year or two. The only time it should really ever be used is when there's a plan to replace the decking over the next couple years.

You may be up **** creek on this one without a ton of elbow grease removing the old stain and clear. Maybe check with Sherwin Williams to see if they have anything that will go over the clear you put on.

Or if you are selling the house

A friend of mine used a product that resembled a spray on pickup bed liner. I'm sure he applied it with a brush. Looked really good when he applied it a couple years back but I haven't seen it lately so can't attest to it durability. Not positive but believe it was a Menards offered product.

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

View attachment 152118

Pressure washer with a paint stripper nozzle. I will echo what was said above, it's likely time for new decking boards.

 

[JM4CY]

That almost looks like you already used a deck correct type product on it. That stuff is good for filling and masking bad boards but it really is a last ditch effort type product that will start peeling after a year or two. The only time it should really ever be used is when there's a plan to replace the decking over the next couple years.

You may be up **** creek on this one without a ton of elbow grease removing the old stain and clear. Maybe check with Sherwin Williams to see if they have anything that will go over the clear you put on.

So you’re on HER side??? So replace the deck? The wife ever reads CF… I’m coming for your ass.

 

[AgronAlum]

So you’re on HER side??? So replace the deck? The wife ever reads CF… I’m coming for your ass.

Actually lol'd at this one.

If you've got a decent pressure washer, give it a go. If that doesn't work, you're going to be glad you replaced the decking instead. Generally, a nozzle that has enough pressure to remove that stuff is gonna leave splinters, gouges and lines all over the place.

 

[NickTheGreat]

I absolutely HATE any of those opaque or deckover things. I put some on ours a few years into our house, and it looked great for about 2 months, then looked like ass.

Ironically, it was quite hard to power wash and sand off completely.

I'd recommend a semi-transparent or transparent sealer. I always used to use whatever Olympic or Behr I found at the store. I tried a silicone-based one this season. My parents have used it for a few years and really like it. So far so good, except it's a little bit slippery after a rain.

 

[GoClone]

I started using a product called TWP sold at Fleet Farm stores after stripping my deck down to the wood about eight years ago. It is the best product I have found. It can rain in the morning and still be beading when I get home from work in the afternoon if the weather is humid. The first year after stripping the deck I put two coats of TWP on the deck.

Now I powerwash the deck each year to clean it, then go over the flat surfaces with a new dress up coat of TWP. The side boards and posts I touch up every two or three years.

This May I dressed the flat surfaces up using a drywall sponge cut in one third width. While I was down on my knees still, it was the quicker and smoother application than a brush. I will be using this system again. Much quicker than using a brush also.

It seems to me that winter dries my deck out and affects it more than any of the weather the rest of the year,

 

[BWRhasnoAC]

So you’re on HER side??? So replace the deck? The wife ever reads CF… I’m coming for your ass.

If you'd like I can come over and give my professional opinion as a contractor so she can really feel superior.