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Woodworkers Thread

JM4CY said:
I’m looking at buying a Kreg Jig K5 master system. I see there $169 on Amazon. Thoughts? I looked into the the K4 but a buddy recommended the K5
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Here’s a breakdown of the two. I have the basic 50 dollar system and have had no complaints. It’s small and easy to use, especially for joining larger pieces. Getting one of the bigger systems is way down my list of tool wants because I haven’t found a time when the cheaper system didn’t do the job. I’ve had it a few years and it works the same as when I got it with quite a bit of use.

https://www.workshopaddict.com/tools/kreg-k4-jig-kit-vs-k5-jig-kit/
 
AgronAlum said:
Here’s a breakdown of the two. I have the basic 50 dollar system and have had no complaints. It’s small and easy to use, especially for joining larger pieces. Getting one of the bigger systems is way down my list of tool wants because I haven’t found a time when the cheaper system didn’t do the job. I’ve had it a few years and it works the same as when I got it with quite a bit of use.

https://www.workshopaddict.com/tools/kreg-k4-jig-kit-vs-k5-jig-kit/
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Thanks. I appreciate that. What I was told by a buddy that does some novice woodworking Like myself is that he likes the K5 one because it’s easier for bigger pieces to lay level in the jig. I honestly don’t know exactly what he’s talking about but I get the general concept of how to use one of these but I haven’t used one before. I built a table and a few outdoor chairs this summer and I’m thinking it would be strong and look more finished had I used a pocket hole system for them.
 
JM4CY said:
Thanks. I appreciate that. What I was told by a buddy that does some novice woodworking Like myself is that he likes the K5 one because it’s easier for bigger pieces to lay level in the jig. I honestly don’t know exactly what he’s talking about but I get the general concept of how to use one of these but I haven’t used one before. I built a table and a few outdoor chairs this summer and I’m thinking it would be strong and look more finished had I used a pocket hole system for them.
Click to expand...

I would honestly start with this one below. It’s 30 bucks and if you think you need more, then spend the 150 bucks. Buy a couple of the standard Kreg handheld clamps to have on hand. FYI, I have one of the handheld pocket hole specific clamps and have never found a good use for it.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p169/kreg-jigreg-r3/
 
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stormchaser2014 said:
Minwax clear gloss. I think the reason why the ends of the table expanded was because I built the table outside in a garage in really cold temps, then brought it inside where it's a lot warmer.
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Could be. Looks good though. I built something almost the same this summer and I think I’m going to sell it and build one the way you did with those end cap pieces and pocket holes. The 2x6s I used on the top of mine were as straight as I could get them at Menards but still have gaps that my kids get food and crap stuck in. Any advice on getting those flush would be appreciated!
 
JM4CY said:
Could be. Looks good though. I built something almost the same this summer and I think I’m going to sell it and build one the way you did with those end cap pieces and pocket holes. The 2x6s I used on the top of mine were as straight as I could get them at Menards but still have gaps that my kids get food and crap stuck in. Any advice on getting those flush would be appreciated!
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Just noticed the food thing from Thanksgiving. I think when I do something like this again, I might run the planks through a table saw to cut off the rounded edges, so they attach flush, then use a router to cut a small groove
 
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JM4CY said:
Could be. Looks good though. I built something almost the same this summer and I think I’m going to sell it and build one the way you did with those end cap pieces and pocket holes. The 2x6s I used on the top of mine were as straight as I could get them at Menards but still have gaps that my kids get food and crap stuck in. Any advice on getting those flush would be appreciated!
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Ive gone storm chasers route with the table saw but my table saw kinda sucks. I had better luck on the router table with a straight edge and a large flush trim bit.

Woodsmith store also sells surfaced pine. Obviously more expensive though.
 
JM4CY said:
Could be. Looks good though. I built something almost the same this summer and I think I’m going to sell it and build one the way you did with those end cap pieces and pocket holes. The 2x6s I used on the top of mine were as straight as I could get them at Menards but still have gaps that my kids get food and crap stuck in. Any advice on getting those flush would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Make a straight line rip jig. Google it. Pretty simple way to get glue ready joints without a jointer. Or you could get rid of your kids and then you wouldn’t have crumbs in the gaps. Your choice....
 
BoxsterCy said:
Seems like a good place to ask if anyone's got ideas on what to do with some (1) salvage 2x4 redwood decking (16" o.c. screw holes* and some end rot and shallow bottom surface rot...can be planed down) (2) maple butcher block counter tops - several 30x30 and one 30x80 something. * Can drill those out and fill with redwood plugs.

I am not a finish carpenter, more deck builder skill set kinda guy. The maple is separating in some places. Thinking of cutting into 11x14 cutting boards with a routed edge and 1/2" diameter nylon glides as "legs" and giving them to friends. Maybe 20 boards of the redwood that was salvaged from 12' lengths. It's too deteriorated for decking but not bad enough for me to toss (yet). Did use the unused scrap from the original decking of 20 years ago to build a little garden bridge last year.
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I built a planter out of redwood and a raised bed garden box out of cedar. Both are naturally resistant to rot and are safe for vegetables.

Planter was out of 2x6 and the box was 1x12 dog ear fencing that I cut square with a 2x4 frame and 1x4 trim. I got the redwood at Schutte Lumber in KC, they have a ton of really nice exotic hardwood. It is their specialty and I've never seen a better selection. All the other cuts were from Kropf Lumber in Hesston, KS, although Schutte actually has a bigger selection of cedar.
 
dosry5 said:
Make a straight line rip jig. Google it. Pretty simple way to get glue ready joints without a jointer. Or you could get rid of your kids and then you wouldn’t have crumbs in the gaps. Your choice....
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You can have my kids if you want them. Just give me your address and I’ll drop them off tomorrow morning.
 
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AgronAlum said:
I would honestly start with this one below. It’s 30 bucks and if you think you need more, then spend the 150 bucks. Buy a couple of the standard Kreg handheld clamps to have on hand. FYI, I have one of the handheld pocket hole specific clamps and have never found a good use for it.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c13/kreg-jigsreg/p169/kreg-jigreg-r3/
Click to expand...

I second this. This is the jig I have and it works just fine. Though I’m not building any furniture. I did build a set of cabinets with it though. I don’t view pocket screws as sacrilegious as some woodworkers. However, there are many easy and stronger joints using just glue. I tend to use pocket screws now when I don’t want to take the time to make a glued joint.
 
throwittoblythe said:
I second this. This is the jig I have and it works just fine. Though I’m not building any furniture. I did build a set of cabinets with it though. I don’t view pocket screws as sacrilegious as some woodworkers. However, there are many easy and stronger joints using just glue. I tend to use pocket screws now when I don’t want to take the time to make a glued joint.
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Agreed. I mostly use pocket holes when they can’t be seen and if there’s something else adding structure. The dresser I posted on the first page kind of shows this. I wouldn’t use them as the sole attachment point for something like table tops which I’ve seen on various DIY sites. It’s a great tool to have when used properly.
 
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Anyone have good plans for a shadowbox? My parents dog died and want to make them a box with her collar and picture. I’ve got some solid oak for the sides but haven’t quite figured out how to do the backing and the plexiglass. Do you make the access in the front with the plexi sliding out or on the backing?
 
I’m doing a coffee table with a water based stain for my parents. I can’t decide on what topcoat you use for the most durable finish since there will be grandkids and such beating on it. I don’t have spray equipment so my options are a water based poly, shellac or a brush on lacquer. The brush on lacquer seems to have held up fine on the dresser top I made.

Any suggestions?
 
AgronAlum said:
I’m doing a coffee table with a water based stain for my parents. I can’t decide on what topcoat you use for the most durable finish since there will be grandkids and such beating on it. I don’t have spray equipment so my options are a water based poly, shellac or a brush on lacquer. The brush on lacquer seems to have held up fine on the dresser top I made.

Any suggestions?
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I would like to know thoughts on this as well. I still haven’t finished end tables I made around Christmas time because my garage isn’t heated. I used brush on Varathane poly from Menards on a kitchen table and so far it’s holding up good but I’m no expert on this stuff at all
 
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