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Timing Belt Replacement

CycloneYoda said:
I had the timing belt go out on me while driving in a 93 Ford Escort twice, both on Highway 30 right before the cloverleaf. Didn't need a new engine. That car made it until last year, when I donated it to the local FDPT for training. I saw the flipping and smashing, but I missed the torching.


Edit: I'm pretty sure the Escort didn't have an interference engine, if this matters.
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the friend of mine who had it happen while driving and had it destroy his engine was driving a german car if that makes a difference

i've never heard of changing the belt before 80k miles, so i wouldnt worry about it

on the car i drove growing up i waited until 90k miles and it was 12 years old when i changed it and it never caused problems prior to that...it did cost me close to $600 though so i can see the $1000 bid more likely than the $200 bid
 
CycloneYoda said:
I had the timing belt go out on me while driving in a 93 Ford Escort twice, both on Highway 30 right before the cloverleaf. Didn't need a new engine. That car made it until last year, when I donated it to the local FDPT for training. I saw the flipping and smashing, but I missed the torching.


Edit: I'm pretty sure the Escort didn't have an interference engine, if this matters.
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An "interference engine" means that the movement of the intake and exhaust valves overlap with the movement of the pistons. As long as the timing is fixed, nothing actually touches. When the timing belt breaks and timing isn't maintained, the valves and pistons impact at high speed and are destroyed, probably also destroying the cams and crank. I don't know how to tell if you have an interference engine; from what I understand, all manufacturers offer both interference and non-interference engines.
 
Had this done at 100k on a Pilot, last year. Cost $750. A good mechanic will replace the belt, idlers and water pump otherwise you still have a chance of failure. Yes, if the belt goes out while moving, the only answer is a new engine. This is a more difficult repair on a Honda. I was quoted 1300 by Procenter.
 
flycy said:
I just changed the timing belt and pump on a 04 Accord with over 140,000 miles on the belt. I wouldn't be worried at all about the trip. I did it myself using a Haynes in about 4 hours and less than $200 in parts so $1000 seems extremely high. That included a new serpentine belt, new spark plugs, idler pulleys for both the serpentine belt and timing belt and anti-freeze. I even used the honda anti-freeze. If it is the same engine(3.1L), it is also not likely to be ruined if your belt snaps.
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4 hours of labor at an auto dealership? $75/hr?

Did you replace the water pump? a must when changing a timing belt on a Honda--always
 
I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey with the exact motor that is in your pilot. It is going on 10 yrs old and has 120K miles on it. I wouldn't worry about changing the timing belt yet. Wait till you're closer to the 100K mark.
 
Find someone besides a Honda dealer to do the work. My wife's Honda Accord ran me $535 for timing belt and water pump at Wheelocks here in Ames.
 
Jambalaya said:
4 hours of labor at an auto dealership? $75/hr?

Did you replace the water pump? a must when changing a timing belt on a Honda--always
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Yep, forgot to list the pump in there, and dealers go by whatever their book says the job will take. I would guess 6 hrs charge whereas they can probably get it done in under 3. My research of the Accord 6 cylinder indicated that it was extremely unlikely that your valves would be bent if the belt broke even though Honda claims it is an interference engine.
 
I have a '96 Ranger that went to 180,000 plus miles before I changed the Timing Belt, Water Pump, and the Radiator too. I think it ended up being like 6~700 hundred dollars.
I think they stopped making interference engines in 80's, who would buy something like that?
 
Transient said:
I have a '96 Ranger that went to 180,000 plus miles before I changed the Timing Belt, Water Pump, and the Radiator too. I think it ended up being like 6~700 hundred dollars.
I think they stopped making interference engines in 80's, who would buy something like that?
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I don't have any direct knowledge, but I'd assume that interference engines have become more common as compression ratios have gotten higher for emissions control and mileage regulations. Higher compression means the piston gets closer to the ports at TDC, and unless valve travel is decreased it would be more likely to make contact.
 
besserheimerphat said:
Yes, rubber oxidizes and becomes brittle with time. For metallic parts, you really only have to worry about use. With non-metallic parts, simple exposure to the ambient environment causes decay even without use. I'd change it.
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Which is why I can't figure out why they don't use a chain drive instead of a belt drive on a lot more engines like on larger diesel motors... oh well.

I have heard of a timing belt being as much as 700 or 800 but never 1,000.... it is a BIG job to do (in your garage of course) on some engines as you have to essentially drop the engine by removing the engine mount and jacking up the engine to get to it... not fun, but can be done on your own. I'd get a few more quotes and have it done if you plan on keeping the car for a lot more years. That being said, I've NEVER heard of anyone doing it prior to about 85k miles.
 
cyclone13 said:
Pilot 2005. The 1K will include the replacement of water pump too.
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2005 Pilot timing belt DYI
(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.
 
Another option, and its cheaper..... Go to a school and see if they can replace it. Will cost you parts....NO labour
 
No, I finally dropped it this morning for replacement. I'm not really handy, so I finally decided to have it replaced for the peace of mind.
 
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