Garage Addition

mramseyISU

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Nov 8, 2006
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Waterloo, IA
Anybody added a stall to their garage recently. Looking to add on and just wondering what something like that would cost. I've got a pad of concrete already, just want to box it in.
 

AgronAlum

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Jul 12, 2014
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Is the slab just a slab or were footings poured in anticipation of doing this at some point? It also makes a pretty significant difference whether it's attached or detached.
 
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Pope

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Feb 7, 2015
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When we built our detached garage many years ago, we added two feet to the width to make it 26x24. I'm so glad we did that because those extra two feet made all the difference in the world. Same thing with our driveway when we replaced it a few years ago and made it one foot wider.
 

ackatch

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Jul 22, 2021
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Make sure it's twice as big as you think you need...
I built my shed as large as I could without having to pull a building permit, and I'm constantly kicking myself for not going bigger. So I'll second this.
 

DSMCy

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Sorry no one is answering your question but here are a few more tips haha

Add a door on the side and maybe even the back if you think you’ll need it, so you aren’t always opening the big garage door when you just want to get outside

Wire it for 220 for future use. Mini split, EV charger, table saw, etc
 

psycln11

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Apr 20, 2006
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Ankeny
Like previous poster asked. You won't want to use your existing concrete pad unless you already built in the footings in anticipation of adding the garage at a later date (now) when you poured it. If you're attaching this to an existing structure with footings, the concrete pad can/will shift while the rest of the garage would not.
 

Marcelason78

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Mar 4, 2022
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If you are just interested in material costs, take your dimensions to Menards and they’ll draw it up and give you an estimate for free. They can also give you a list of local builders if you need one.
 

Hammerschlagen

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Feb 23, 2022
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I built a detached 23' x 23' 2 stall garage three years ago. $10k for the concrete that included a driveway maybe 24x16? That price included the labor.
The price for the garage was around $10k as well. Bought through Menards. Did not include labor as I did it myself.
Larger than what you were probably thinking but maybe that helps give you a ballpark estimate
 

AgronAlum

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Jul 12, 2014
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Coming back to this. It's almost impossible to give even a ballpark without knowing some of the bigger aspects.

Size? Detached? Attached?

If attached, are you trying to open it up to the rest of the garage or just a man door? This would require engineering to span the load of the exterior wall.

Are the footings poured with the slab? How thick is the slab? Concrete is expensive.

Also, siding, insulation, drywall, electrical, etc can all add up depending on what is wanted.
 

enisthemenace

Well-Known Member
Dec 5, 2009
13,959
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Runnells, IA
Anybody added a stall to their garage recently. Looking to add on and just wondering what something like that would cost. I've got a pad of concrete already, just want to box it in.
I had a garage addition bid a few years back. My current garage is technically a 3 car, but one side is a drive-through tandem (garage door both front and rear). I wanted to mirror that drive through tandem, so it was a bit bigger than adding a standard stall. If I remember right, the estimate was in at $80-$100K range (I would have done the slab separately). Tying it into the existing roofline is expensive.
 
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Kinch

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Sep 19, 2021
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Anybody added a stall to their garage recently. Looking to add on and just wondering what something like that would cost. I've got a pad of concrete already, just want to box it in.
What is your purpose?
 

BoxsterCy

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 14, 2009
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Minnesota
When we built our detached garage many years ago, we added two feet to the width to make it 26x24. I'm so glad we did that because those extra two feet made all the difference in the world. Same thing with our driveway when we replaced it a few years ago and made it one foot wider.

^This x10. I changed my architects plans and made the double side of my three car tuck-under wider so you have plenty of car door room. My garage enters from the alley and I have room for all of my garbage bins to tuck into the front corner of the garage. Everyone else on the alley has multiple garbage/recycling bins cluttering up their driveway. Next door is another three car garage but it's so narrow the bins sit outside (it's an $800k house for gods jake and there's not room on the side of the garage for anything!).
 
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1SEIACLONE

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Jun 2, 2024
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Ames Iowa
Look into using taller doors than normal for a garage, not camper height, but taller than normal, you may have to increase the height of the structure but what you spend extra now will be gained back when you resale down the road. Also 2nd the idea of a third door off the side or back that you can get your mower or snow blower out without having to open up the front and pull a vehicle out.
When we built our two vehicle garage, it ended up being 30 by 26 I believe, I added the door on the side all the way towards the back, allowing me to get a 3rd vehicle in there, which I never did, but was great to park the mower back there and just drive it out, without having to get the other vehicles out of the garage.
 
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mramseyISU

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Nov 8, 2006
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Waterloo, IA
Guess I should clarify. I was figuring about $10k for materials not counting any concrete based on what I've seen for free standing garage prices. Hadn't thought about the footing but I think you could dig the footing around the parking slab there's room to get to it with a backhoe. The plan would be to basically cover up a parking spot that's been poured on the exterior of my current garage and just tie that into the existing structure. The way the wall is laid out load bearing walls would be extended, not removed. I would remove an exterior wall but it runs parallel with the rafters. I've considered doing the work myself but I just don't have the time to do it.
 

mkadl

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Mar 17, 2006
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Cornfield
Guess I should clarify. I was figuring about $10k for materials not counting any concrete based on what I've seen for free standing garage prices. Hadn't thought about the footing but I think you could dig the footing around the parking slab there's room to get to it with a backhoe. The plan would be to basically cover up a parking spot that's been poured on the exterior of my current garage and just tie that into the existing structure. The way the wall is laid out load bearing walls would be extended, not removed. I would remove an exterior wall but it runs parallel with the rafters. I've considered doing the work myself but I just don't have the time to do it.
Your perimeter walls must be on top of your new footing. Just making sure you know that.
 
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