My wife and I are going for 12 days in a couple of months. We heard the same and relegated Venice down to a "maybe" day trip depending how we feel. We are splitting the time in Rome, Florence, Parma, and Lake Garda. Parma is the shortest stop and really just for food. Wanted to end in Lake Garda for a more adventurous stop with a spa type resort. We want to go play in the mountains then come "home" and get pampered and recover.
I'd love to hear about Rome! We have three days and have one day set aside for a Vatican and Colosseum tour. What else do you suggest!?
I think that's smart to keep Venice as a "maybe." It truly is just sort of one of those "but it's Venice" things - unique in every way. But, I didn't feel like there were as many things to DO outside of St. Mark's and looking at the various bridges, riding a gondola.
I'm going to PM you, but I just LOVE Rome. Some of my recommendations depend on if you're into the history of Christianity (whether you're a Catholic or not), architecture, art. Here are the big things I'd say:
- Vatican - I love the Vatican. Love it. Here are my biggest recommendations for it:
- I have been lucky enough to do the Necropolis tour on both my trips. You'll need to check NOW to see if there are any openings: LINK It is a tour of St. Peter's tomb, as well as the city of the dead and several of the old Popes' sarcophogi, underneath St. Peter's. Only 126 people per day get to do this (out of the tens of thousands who go to the Vatican each day), so it's truly special.
- We did a tour of the Sistine before the rest of St. Peter's opened. It's way less crowded in there then. You also get let out right into St. Peter's Basilica before the doors open, so you can look around and see the Michelangelo, confessionals, etc. before it's swamped. Viator and TripAdvisor have a ton of these, and they're worth it.
- If you go on a Sunday or Wednesday, try and see the Pope. I'm not Catholic, but it was amazing. I have a selfie with the Pope literally ten feet behind me. You just have to walk up to one of the Swiss Guards in the collonade and ask for tickets - I'd faxed in a request in advance, but it's unnecessary if you just go up to the Swiss Guards.
- Make friends with people! I went with my mom on my first Necropolis tour, and she doesn't talk to people, but I made friends with some people on our little tour. We ran into them in Trestavere three days later and chatted again. Rome is NOT that big.
- Colosseum - you have to do it, but it honestly was not my favorite. SO many people everywhere.
- Domus Aurea (
TICKETS, among others) - I preferred this to the Colosseum. It's got a fascinating
STORY - Nero made this ridiculously opulent palace after he burned down Rome. His successors were mortified at how embarrassing it was, and just buried it to be rid of it. Some dude was walking up the hill 15 centuries later and fell into this opulent bath. Tons of Renaissance visionaries rappelled down into it, and now it's an excavation site you can tour.
- The Holy Stairs -
Scala Santa and Sancta Sanctorum - the stairs where Jesus had to carry up his cross while bleeding to meet Pilate, and the holy chapel of old popes. We were lucky enough to go when it was being restored and I could go up the actual stairs, not the protective layer. Went up on knees - in Catholic church, each of the 28 stairs gives you seven years of absolution. It's humbling if you're a Christian, but likely not worth it if you are not. It is also right next to Basilica of Saint John Lateran, which is beautiful - part of the ceiling is attributed to Michelangelo, and the Alter's cedar table is said to be the table from The Last Supper.
- Campo de Fiori - This is a truly Roman experience. Huge outdoor market by a gorgeous fountain. Stop by Forno to get a ciambella, my favorite Italian donut.
- Polvere di Tempo (in Trastevere):
LINK, I really adored this little handmade shop in Trastavere, went each time I went to Rome. The owner is a former hippie who now makes all kinds of nautical and timekeeping things by hand. We got the most beautiful kaleidoscopes and compass there.
- San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane:
LINK - This church has an amazing ceiling that was created by a bipolar architect (Borromini) in the 1600s. Its architecture is Baroque, but the ceiling was my absolute favorite. Other than St Peter’s, it was easily my favorite of the 20 or so churches we went into. There is a little crypt underneath that is worth a visit, as it’s just a small donation. Lovely church. Worth the uphill hike from the city center, especially if you're an architecture fan.
- Protestant Cemetery:
LINK (near pyramid of Cestius). This was super-cool. John Keats, van Goethe, and Percy Bryce Shelley are all buried here - I was an English major, so this was super-cool for me. It’s also just really cool, as it’s incredibly crowded and unlike anything we have in the US. It was very unique, and old.
There are so many classic pieces of art that are just available for free or for a small admission price in the cathedrals and basilicas, as well as incredible architecture. I went into the Capuchin Crypts (not for everyone, but I LOVED it), and they just happened to have a Caravaggio there as part of the exhibit, totally unbilled. Wandering and eating gelato and pizza, finding fascinating places, is totally underrated!