Concrete Driveway - Costs & Referrals Needed

[Jer]

I am looking to get a driveway laid this spring and am looking for any advice on contractors and what to expect for costs. So far I've heard around $85/cubic yrd for the concrete and we'd be looking at around 11.5 cubic yrds (11ftx84ftx4in). I'm assuming most would recommend using steel rebar as the one contractor I've talked to said he wouldn't own anything that didn't have at least 2-3ft on center rebar.

Anyways, let me know if you have any recommendations for contractors and what you've paid in the past.

 

[ceeboe]

Concrete Innovations is someone we use for work. I'm unsure of costs, but quality seems fair.

 

[4VR4CY]

You are dropping a lot of $ this spring. Driveway, landscaping....

Sounds like us. We are having a fence installed, had a humidifier installed, bought a water softener, and will do more landscaping just like every summer. Landscaping might actually get done this summer for good. We have been doing sections at a time.

 

[ceeboe]

May I recommend perferrated concrete or stone blocks. Water will seem right through not causing an icey drivieway. They also have that in asphalt!

Classic Concrete is another that comes to mind.

 

[loki8838]

Most driveways I've worked on or seen done in my neck of the woods has wire mesh instead of rebar. Look into that, as you can save money and get the same end result.

The best piece of advice I can give you is make sure the proper amount of time and effort is put into prepping the subgrade. (sand and/or rock used as a base for the concrete itself). A poorly constructed subgrade will cause a majority of your problems in a concrete slab.

 

[jDub]

Most driveways I've worked on or seen done in my neck of the woods has wire mesh instead of rebar. Look into that, as you can save money and get the same end result.

The best piece of advice I can give you is make sure the proper amount of time and effort is put into prepping the subgrade. (sand and/or rock used as a base for the concrete itself). A poorly constructed subgrade will cause a majority of your problems in a concrete slab.

Agree on the subgrade. Also make sure you're considering the grade of the slab as compared to the surrounding earth or other material and pay special attention to drainage. I've had two sections of two separate driveways collapse (shortly after I moved in of course) due to water working its way under the slab which eventually leads to the slab collapsing.

 

[Jer]

Right now we have a rock driveway and the drainage is, of course, towards the foundation instead of away. I had the first contractor out tonight to look at the property and he worked out a drainage and elevation plan but won't have an estimate for cost until Thursday or Friday. He said that he uses steel rebar at 2-3' on center and would use rock, not sand, for the subgrade. He seemed very well versed and was very pleasant to talk to. The company is Rayco Concrete out of DSM. I'll be calling some others for quotes tomorrow. Thanks for the advice, keep it coming:notworthy:

 

[scottie33]

Jeremy, I advise you to PM member JustinCl. I know he works for a heavy highway contractor and he would be able to tell you everything you need, and what kind of price you are looking at and whether to use rebar opposed to wire mess and also with your subgrade!

 

[brianhos]

Jeremy, I would expect that would run you close to $4k if you are hiring it out. We put in a 3rd slab last year that was almost that size and it was just over $3k.

 

[ceeboe]

Ok, excuse my first thought. Use Classic Concrete, not Concrete Innovations! I confirmed my sources.

 

[coachdags]

Jeremy, I would expect that would run you close to $4k if you are hiring it out. We put in a 3rd slab last year that was almost that size and it was just over $3k.

or the cost of 6 purses......:biglaugh:sorry could not help myself

 

[enolcyc]

I had a large area poured last summer and got 3 quotes. The best quote was also awesome service and not a crack anywhere.

Woodhouse & Lee is the contractor name.

They have well trained crews and will have the drive ready in a day and pour it the next day....no waiting around.

 

[SeattleClone]

Most driveways I've worked on or seen done in my neck of the woods has wire mesh instead of rebar. Look into that, as you can save money and get the same end result.

The best piece of advice I can give you is make sure the proper amount of time and effort is put into prepping the subgrade. (sand and/or rock used as a base for the concrete itself). A poorly constructed subgrade will cause a majority of your problems in a concrete slab.

Agree on the wire mesh instead of rebar, at least for slab on grade that is only 4" thick. Assuming you aren't planning on parking a dump truck in your driveway...

 

[mrsbrianhos]

Jeremy, I would expect that would run you close to $4k if you are hiring it out. We put in a 3rd slab last year that was almost that size and it was just over $3k.

The people who did the drive, were Markley Concrete out of Huxley, I believe. They did a good job.

 

[mkcrawford]

Jeremy,

I would echo some of the suggestions mentioned; wire mesh (make sure the contractors lift it off the ground so that it is in the middle of the slab), pay attention to the drainage (away from the foundation).

Also, since you're spending the money pay a little extra and get the driveway about 12 to 18 inches wider than your garage door. This way when you pull onto the driveway and get out, you'll be walking on concrete rather than on the sod/yard. Also this will allow you to get two vehicles side-by-side without being cramped.

On the topic of pervious pavement. I deal with this new method of paving as a Civil Engineer and the one reason I hesitate when someone asks about it, is because of how it will handle deicing agents and our freeze/thaw cycles. The theory is that small rain events will absorb right into the pavement. This is only possible of there is a subsurface chamber for the water to filter in to. Personally, I don't think there is enough information on the product yet to determine what the effects of salt is over time.

I could go into more detail, but I'm on Vacation in K.C. for the Big 12 Tourney :smile::yes::wink:.

Good luck in your search.

 

[mramseyISU]

Nuckolls Concrete check with them. 266-9928

 

[jumbopackage]

The people who did the drive, were Markley Concrete out of Huxley, I believe. They did a good job.

Do you know what the cost was using Coach purses as a unit of monetary measure?

 

[Jer]

Thanks so much everybody, I'll definitely take those things into consideration!

 

[Jerry1982]

Interesting to hear some people recommend the wire mesh. In my neighborhood we all use re-bar. I've torn up enough concrete where the wire mesh doesn't seem all that impressive that I'd think some 1/2 bar is the only way to go.

4 inches doesn't sound very impressive to me. I'd go 6 inches with a 4000# mix.

I'll defer to those with engineering degrees however. What ever happened to fiberglass? Maybe 8 or ten years ago it was all the rage, but I've not heard any talk of it lately.

 

[l2alphmacchio]

4 inches doesn't sound very impressive to me. I'd go 6 inches with a 4000# mix.

CE here, 4 inches is plenny, unless like earlier noted, you plan on parking a dump truck or any other significant large vehicle repeatedly on it. 4000# mix is a little much as well, most driveways get poured with a 2000# mix without showing any problems for at least 15 years. One thing to look out for, if you will be present during, make sure they give you 4 inches, most workers just use the thickness of a 2x4, which is techniquely 3.5 inches.